Stories
Don’t Fear the Walking Dead
The ominous hoot of the owl, and the howl of the wind. A forest of bare, tortured limbs. Halloween imagery is ubiquitous and sanitized today. In its original incarnation, Halloween was a day that marked the transition between the bountiful autumn harvests, and the long, cold dark of winter. We will know The little secrets of the darkness.
The boundary between the living and the dead, when the veil between this life and the next is at its thinnest. Straddling that divide, lies an organism. Undistinguished, it doesn’t carry the hallmarks of a Hallmark’s card or the pantomimed horrors of a Hollywood production.
Rather, it is the unsettling consumption of life before our very eyes. Robbed of agency, of what makes us human. It is us, stripped of who we are. Seen through the human lens, it is the Zombie. But before there was the Zombie, there was Cordyceps.
We have seen a world transformed this year; Macroeconomics upset by a microorganism and it’s left us unsettled. There are two narratives; one of fear and one of understanding, or as Marie Curie, the Nobel laureate in both Physics and Chemistry put it, “nothing in life is to be feared, only understood”.
The little secrets of the darkness…
The story of Cordyceps is both a homage to and a warning from nature. It begins with a fungal spore. Either fallen from the sky above or adsorbed to the feet from below, it adheres to the insect’s (or arachnid) chitinous exoskeleton. Whereupon it begins to secrete digestive enzymes, proteases, and chitinases, which slowly weaken the membrane and provide both foods for the germinating spore, and a so-called “penetration pathway”. Through a kind of mechanical pressure, a hollow tube forces its way through the dermal layers and into the insect’s hemolymph, essentially the bloodstream. From here the infection spreads throughout the host’s body.
The fungus then secretes hormones that affect the brain, ultimately controlling the behavior of the host, bending it to the will of the fungus. Or so it was thought…Until recently, this was the dominant narrative. However, new research has emerged that Cordyceps might in fact achieve host control through a more mechanical means. Electron micrographs show the fungal mycelia, long, probing, thread-like growths, wrapped around the muscles of hosts, perhaps pushing and pulling the host along, like some grotesque puppet. Infected insects move jerkily, leaving the safe confines of their nests or shelters. They venture out into the open spaces, climbing until they are well above the ground. Only then do they bite down on the stem or branch, their mandibles locked in what will be their deathly repose. Now the scene has been set, and the fungus waits only for the right environmental conditions; humidity and peak host activity.
A scary ending…
Thereupon, a shoot emerges from the head of the insect. It grows into a long stalk terminating in a sac. This sac holds millions of spores, ready to rain down upon the unsuspecting heads of a beleaguered insect populace. Day by day, month by month, in the rainforest understory the walking dead march on irrespective of calendar dates. Happy Halloween.
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What our guest say
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- Valuation Excellent
- 5/5
Alan U November 2024
Neal H November 2024
Sergio J October 2024
Megan Jackson October 2024
Hayley October 2024
Jonathan K October 2024
Jonathan Krejci October 2024
Hannah E October 2024
Dave L October 2024
Magnus O October 2024
David G October 2024
T T October 2024
I am normally not a nature-oriented person but spending a few days in the rainforest was mind-blowing. Our guide, Juan Carlos, was knowledgeable, passionate about his work, and a fun person to go on a several hours long hike to boot. He made sure we were taking the activities at our own pace, answered all our questions and had a seemingly endless knowledge of the plants and animals. The lodge is located in a protected area of the rainforest and as a result, the biodiversity is amazing and the staff are very respectful and protective of the wildlife. For a note on the lodging, late september is the end of dry season and also the hottest time of year. If I were to come back, I would upgrade to a room with a fan as there is no AC in the facility. Lodging was clean and I personally enjoyed the chance to unplug and sleep so close to nature. Without hyperbole this was a once in a lifetime experience and I cannot recommend it enough. Read all
We had the experience of a lifetime at Posada Amazonas! For our first trip ever to Peru, we wanted to see as much of the country as possible, and started our journey here. Everything went seamlessly- from the pick up at the airport, check in at the office, to the delicious lunch on the boat during our transfer. The next 3 days were filled with wonderful experiences including the canopy hike, oxbow lake cruise, sunset cruise and more. Luis was our guide extraordinaire. His knowledge and ability to spot interesting flora and fauna were amazing. The rooms are clean and spacious and perfect to experience the jungle. You haven't lived until you are awakened by the calls of howler monkeys at 4:15am! Highly recommended! Read all
We had a truly amazing time at Tambopata Research Center and its sister lodge, Refugio. Days were filled with long walks in the jungle to see all the incredible wildlife and plant life, the evening talks with the researchers were thoroughly enjoyable and inspiring, and meals with like minded travelers were a pleasure. Our rooms were extremely comfortable and well laid out, the food was varied, healthy and tasty, and the staff really went out of their way to ensure we had everything we needed and that our stay was going well. Truly couldn't recommend this experience more. Read all
My husband and I recently had the opportunity to visit the Tambopata Research Center in the Amazon rainforest, and it was truly an unforgettable experience! We did the 5 day, 4 night experience, which was so worth it. I personally think this is the perfect amount of time as it gave us the flexibility to have more opportunities to see wildlife, but also moments of relaxing at the lodge. We booked the trip through Tambopata Travel, with Mike. He was extremely helpful, very organized, and answered all 5 million questions I had haha. He was a very effective communicator and I would recommend anyone and everyone use him to help plan your rainforest experience. Before I get to my review, my only recommendation to the center would be for them to incorporate more of a variety of activities. A majority of the available activities are equivalent to walking around the rainforest looking for animals and learning about the surroundings. Which was amazing to me, but could lead to boredom for some. Thankfully, we had out guide Timo who made every walk through the rainforest interesting. Reaching the lodge does take about 3.5 hours, but if you embrace this part of the journey it only makes everything better. Once we arrived, I found the lodge to be absolutely amazing given its remote location. There will be bugs and there will be loud animal sounds, I think it’s important to remember we are guest in these animals home. Having spent 11 days in Peru prior to this trip, I can confidently say that the food at the lodge was the best we had consistently enjoyed throughout our travels. We also had the opportunity to work with other guides in Peru, all of whom were booked through reputable companies, but none compared to our guide, Timo, in terms of his English proficiency and extensive knowledge. The bar manager was also a highlight; he was very knowledgeable about alcohol and offered great recommendations and was able to make a variety of drinks based on what we were wanting to experience. All of the staff at Tambopata were very friendly and always had a smile on their face, especially the busser, I unfortunately missed his name, but he was great and so friendly. From start to finish, the trip was filled with incredible moments, largely thanks to our amazing guide, Timo. Timo was hands down the most knowledgeable guide I have ever encountered. His expertise about the rainforest was impressive, and he had an uncanny ability to spot wildlife that we would have completely missed without him. It was raining one day and we were willing to go out in the rain and Timo was right there with us. We had the chance to see a wide variety of animals, far exceeding my expectations.Timo also provided us with extensive knowledge about the plants and trees, helping us to understand the ecosystem as a whole. I was seriously blown away by how much he knew about the rainforest. Timo’s insights made the experience not just about the wildlife we saw, but also about the profound interconnectedness of life in the rainforest. We also appreciated Timo’s insight about the nature of wildlife viewing in the rainforest; some days were bustling with activity while others were quieter. I think it’s important for anyone wanting to travel to the Amazon to remember, this is a vast ecosystem with thousands of acres of wilderness- not a zoo. Overall, my time at the Tambopata Research Center was filled with awe-inspiring moments, and I learned so much about the rainforest. I highly recommend this experience to anyone looking to connect deeply with nature. Just remember to go with the flow and appreciate the rainforest for what it is! Read all
Fantastic lodge and research station deep in the reserve and the Amazon forest far from all visible signs of humanity, dense rainforest teeming with birds, animals, insects - it balances the discomfort of the steamy forest heat and biting insects perfectly with a little luxury when you are not out on excursions in the jungle - exactly what one would want from an Amazon experience. Read all
This lodge is a bit of a splurge, but for me, totally worth it. The staff were, without exception, cheerful, friendly and helpful. Our guide, Dino, was a true professional: a calm presence and a genius at spotting wildlife, and having no more than seven people in our group at all times was a plus (the other Rainforest Expeditions lodges have up to ten). We opted for a Comfort Room, and it was lovely; spacious and attractive, with a hammock and a terrific shower. The biggest surprise for me was the food, which was consistently terrific. Finally, it is clear to me that Rainforest Expeditions is truly committed to environmental preservation and giving back to the local community. As for the rainforest itself, it was interesting and we saw lots of wildlife, but don't expect it to be like an African safari. You can walk for a long time without seeing much, and often the animals are far way or well hidden (this is one reason group size matters; we often took turns looking through our guide's high-powered telescopic lens). Also, your experience will depend a lot on the weather. Two of the days we were there were quite nice; the other two were oppressively, stultifyingly hot and humid. Read all
This lodge is a bit of a splurge, but for me, totally worth it. The staff were, without exception, cheerful, friendly and helpful. Our guide, Dino, was a true professional: a calm presence and a genius at spotting wildlife, and having no more than seven people in our group at all times was a plus (the other Rainforest Expeditions lodges have up to ten). We opted for a Comfort Room, and it was lovely; spacious and attractive, with a hammock and a terrific shower. The biggest surprise for me was the food, which was consistently terrific. Finally, it is clear to me that Rainforest Expeditions is truly committed to environmental preservation and giving back to the local community. As for the rainforest itself, it was interesting and we saw lots of wildlife, but don't expect it to be like an African safari. You can walk for a long time without seeing much, and often the animals are far way or well hidden (this is one reason group size matters; we often took turns looking through our guide's high-powered telescopic lens). Also, your experience will depend a lot on the weather. Two of the days we were there were quite nice; the other two were oppressively, stultifyingly hot and humid. Read all
We had an amazing time during our trip to the Tambopata Research Center. The staff make your stay as comfortable as possible, and the food is delicious. From the moment they collect you at the airport, you don’t have to worry about anything - you’ll be in good hands. Our guide, Boris, did an incredible job of planning our daily activities, and we were spoiled to see and learn about the incredible wildlife - parrots, macaws, monkeys, capybara, innumerable insects, and more! This is a fantastic trip is highly recommended if you are keen on science, nature, and not too fussed about some pretty big bugs! We did a 3-night, 2-day trip (with a travel day on both sides), and would recommend one more day if you can swing it! Read all
This is not a resort but rather a very nice and comfortable eco lodge to view wildlife with friendly and knowledgeable staff. Keep in mind that there is a lot of walking and stairs (almost 0.5 miles) to get to the lodge from the water transport river bank where you are dropped off. The clean spacious rooms are open air concept with mosquito nets for the beds and you can listen to rainforest creatures all night. The activities they offer are diverse (e.g., night hikes, water excursions to see caimans, otters and bird watching, visit to local farm and 40 meter observation tower). You are fed well with breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets. Many thanks to our tour guide Luis M. for his extensive knowledge of the rainforest and keen eyes/ears to find hidden creatures while keeping our group safe. Read all
Fint och trevligt ställe inne i regnskogen. Maten var enkel men god, serverat som buffé. Vatten från egen brunn fanns för påfyllning i medhavda vattenflaskor (fanns att köpa om man missat). Kaffe och te fanns alltid tillgängligt men var oftast kallt och svagt. Mycket häftiga rum som är helt öppna mot naturen på en sida. Var beredd på besök av smådjur och insekter. Gästerna fick komma överens om vilka aktiviteter vi ville genomföra med guiden på plats. Turerna var bra men med mycket tidiga starter. För oss som hade värmebölja med temperaturer uppåt 40 grader passade detta bra. Read all
Our 3-night stay at the Tambopata research was an experience we will never forget. Everything was well coordinated starting with our pickup at the airport. We then took a 10 min bus ride to the Rainforest Expeditions office where a busload of us all repacked our stuff into 30 lb duffel bags. The remainder of our items stayed at the office. Next, we got back on the bus for a 90-minute ride to the boat dock. Along the way, we had a box lunch and had an overview of the area and our upcoming days. Once on the boat, the guides slowed down for wildlife photo ops of capybaras and the many birds we saw. When we arrived at the lodge, Mary gave an overview of the facility while our bags were taken to our room which was a 10-minute walk from the main lodge/dining area on an elevated boardwalk in the rainforest. The room as advertised was open on one side to the rainforest and yes, we did have some nighttime visitors, but the mosquito netting kept them off us. The room was spacious and well-appointed with a fridge, ceiling fan, water, etc. At dinner we met our own personal rainforest guide – Timo. We made our plans for the next day which included a 5AM boat ride to the clay lick where we saw the most amazing macaws. Timo was very knowledgeable, fluent in English and well equipped with a telescope which provided some great pix even with using just an iPhone. Timo also took us on several hikes around the facility and up to the top of the canopy tower where we saw various species on monkeys and more birds. Each evening there were lectures presented by the researchers on various topics. Then there was the food! Each meal was freshly made and well prepared. Quite a variety for all tastes. The food is amazing and goes quickly so be sure to load up your plate. And the bar had a decent variety of beer, wine and liquor! We spent more at Tambopata than we normally would, but I can say it was definitely well worth it!! Read all
Had an amazing stay of 3 nights here. Guide (Lucia) was fantastic, even having a phone attachment to allow you to take photos through her telescope and get fantastic shots, and much of the trip was solo with her. The lodge had blazing fast wifi, mix of craft beers, and was very comfortable (as long as you don't mind the odd butterfly or frog wandering into your room). Friendly service and really well organized w/ lots of variety of things to do - I happened to stumble across a giant Harpy Eagle right outside the lodge, just incredible. Only thing that could be improved is more variety of food and condiments to spice it up, but it is in the middle of the rainforest after all Read all
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