Stories

Gateway into the Amazon by Nicole Lizares

Nicole Lizares works for conservation organizations in the Philippines and recently joined us for an expedition to the Tambopata Research Center. Below is an article published by Nicole in the February/March 2015 issue of ‘Explore Philippines’. Enjoy!

Lodge-in-a-Magazine

‘Stumbled’ is perhaps not the most impressive word to describe how I managed to find myself in the middle of the Amazon rainforest, given that I was a grad student who had supposedly done her research well and had prepared meticulously for this trip, but it is the most appropriate.

After more than 29 hours hopping on and off airplanes, riding in cabs, a bus, and finally, on a boat upstream for what felt like an eternity (it was really just around four hours), I found myself dusty, sweaty and stumbling along a trail in the middle of the Tambopata National Reserve, one of the largest protected areas (covering more than 271,000 hectares of land) on the Peruvian side of the Amazon. Our final destination: The Tambopata Research Center, a.k.a TRC, an eco-lodge owned and operated by Rainforest Expeditions. I thanked the heavens that I was in their good hands.

Reputed to be one of the most remote eco-lodges in South America and the only one to be situated inside a national reserve, the TRC is in a very unique position. One of the world’s largest clay licks (mounds of mud and salt deposits where thousands of birds flock every morning to get their dose of the mineral) is a mere 500 meters from the lodge. The TRC’s remote location also means that the forest ecosystems around it remain pristine and largely untouched, offering researchers and scientists a rare opportunity to study wildlife in their most undisturbed state.

Back in the 1989..

In fact, the lodge’s name harkens back to a time when it was purely that: a research center, housing scientists who were studying the macaw population and working to protect the wild birds from illegal hunters.

«That was back in 1989,» shares our local forest guide, Frank Pichardo. «Eduardo Nycander, he was a wildlife photographer who started The Macaw Project in this area to gather information about the macaws that could help in protecting them, and he founded what is today known as Rainforest Expeditions with two other partners.»

TRC’s first clients were heavy-duty photographers and bird watchers who slept on a platform with makeshift mats (called «lengua de gato» or cat’s tongue because of their thinness» under mosquito nets. There was no latrine so the guests would take baths and do their business in the flowing river.

Today TRC boasts an 18-room lodge, eight shared bathrooms, and surrounding forest trails encompassing a combined web measuring about 20 kilometers and offering access to a range of wildlife habitats from bamboo forests to terra-firma forests, and riverine beds to palm swamps.

Frank, who has been with Rainforest Expeditions for almost six years, agrees that the company has come a long way from its humble beginnings and that the most significant progress has been on the forefront of conservation and social enterprise.

«I am really proud to be able to say that Rainforest Expeditions started eco-tourism in this area of Peru,» he beams. «One of the reasons that I really like working here is that, besides being involved in research, the company also has several projects and a cooperation with the local community in this area.»

Frank is referring to the indigenous Esa-Eja tribe in the nearby community of Infierno, two hours upriver from Puerto Maldonado, in Southeastern Peru, who also happens to be Rainforest Expeditions’ business partner.

«Rainforest Expeditions also runs another lodge called Posada Amazonas, which is closer to Puerto Maldonado and is partly run by the community. They have an agreement with the company wherein 60% of the profits stay within the community, and the rest goes to Rainforest Expeditions for profit and maintenance of the facilities,» Frank explains.

Besides TRC and Posada Amazonas, Rainforest Expeditions also runs Refugio Amazonas, the «luxury» lodge option to TRC’s more adventurous and Spartan vibe, and the company is currently undergoing research to build a fourth lodge. Whatever the theme, though, the team behind Rainforest Expeditions seems to have their formula down pat.

In all of the lodges, the rooms and structures are built to blend in with the environment, using traditional materials. A unique aspect of all of the rooms is that they have left the fourth wall vacant, opting instead for a waist- high balcony that opens out into the rainforest. This design is a singular feature for all Rainforest Expeditions lodges and gives guests the distinct feeling of being in closer contact with the forest but with the comforts of a hotel room.

The majestic sounds of the orchestra

Needless to say, we never had to look very far for wildlife. We would barely be ten steps from the entrance to the lodge before a strange new insect, a well-camouflaged snake, or a majestic bird would hold up our group. Boat rides were punctuated by sightings of capybaras or tapirs. Our well-versed and knowledgeable guides seemed to know the jungle like the backs of their hands, and could expertly field our queries and feed us tidbits of useful trivia.

I woke up every morning to the majestic sounds of the orchestra that was the Amazon rainforest just behind my bedpost: birds screeching intermittently, giant crickets chirping in a rising and falling crescendo, and the strange gurgling sounds of howler monkeys screaming at each other from the treetops.

Some days I would wake to find a rogue macaw poking around in my clothesline, probably hunting for some of the nuts and dried mangoes I would stuff into my pockets and take on hikes. And even though we had been warned to keep food locked up or stored safely in plastic bins or run the risk of getting our rooms invaded, one particular day we awoke to a mighty ruckus coming from a neighboring room: a stubborn guest had found some curious possums snooping (successfully) in his backpack for some chocolate bars.

A few days before the end of our trip, the host and humid skies finally broke and poured cool, wet rain on the TRC grounds. It didn’t last very long, but while it poured, I got the sense that the entire forest had gone quite still. I stood for a long time watching the rain from the shelter of TRC’s entrance hall, admiring the way the sun caught on the lodge’s thatch roofs and appreciating the cold, damp breeze the rain blew in, and not for the last time, I marveled at this little piece of paradise right smack in the middle of the Amazon jungle that Rainforest Expeditions had somehow nurtured, protected, and turned into a home.

What our guest say
- Valuation Excellent
- 5/5

Alan U November 2024

Neal H November 2024

Sergio J October 2024

Megan Jackson October 2024

Hayley October 2024

Jonathan K October 2024

Jonathan Krejci October 2024

Hannah E October 2024

Dave L October 2024

Magnus O October 2024

David G October 2024

T T October 2024

I am normally not a nature-oriented person but spending a few days in the rainforest was mind-blowing. Our guide, Juan Carlos, was knowledgeable, passionate about his work, and a fun person to go on a several hours long hike to boot. He made sure we were taking the activities at our own pace, answered all our questions and had a seemingly endless knowledge of the plants and animals. The lodge is located in a protected area of the rainforest and as a result, the biodiversity is amazing and the staff are very respectful and protective of the wildlife. For a note on the lodging, late september is the end of dry season and also the hottest time of year. If I were to come back, I would upgrade to a room with a fan as there is no AC in the facility. Lodging was clean and I personally enjoyed the chance to unplug and sleep so close to nature. Without hyperbole this was a once in a lifetime experience and I cannot recommend it enough. Read all

We had the experience of a lifetime at Posada Amazonas! For our first trip ever to Peru, we wanted to see as much of the country as possible, and started our journey here. Everything went seamlessly- from the pick up at the airport, check in at the office, to the delicious lunch on the boat during our transfer. The next 3 days were filled with wonderful experiences including the canopy hike, oxbow lake cruise, sunset cruise and more. Luis was our guide extraordinaire. His knowledge and ability to spot interesting flora and fauna were amazing. The rooms are clean and spacious and perfect to experience the jungle. You haven't lived until you are awakened by the calls of howler monkeys at 4:15am! Highly recommended! Read all

We had a truly amazing time at Tambopata Research Center and its sister lodge, Refugio. Days were filled with long walks in the jungle to see all the incredible wildlife and plant life, the evening talks with the researchers were thoroughly enjoyable and inspiring, and meals with like minded travelers were a pleasure. Our rooms were extremely comfortable and well laid out, the food was varied, healthy and tasty, and the staff really went out of their way to ensure we had everything we needed and that our stay was going well. Truly couldn't recommend this experience more. Read all

My husband and I recently had the opportunity to visit the Tambopata Research Center in the Amazon rainforest, and it was truly an unforgettable experience! We did the 5 day, 4 night experience, which was so worth it. I personally think this is the perfect amount of time as it gave us the flexibility to have more opportunities to see wildlife, but also moments of relaxing at the lodge. We booked the trip through Tambopata Travel, with Mike. He was extremely helpful, very organized, and answered all 5 million questions I had haha. He was a very effective communicator and I would recommend anyone and everyone use him to help plan your rainforest experience. Before I get to my review, my only recommendation to the center would be for them to incorporate more of a variety of activities. A majority of the available activities are equivalent to walking around the rainforest looking for animals and learning about the surroundings. Which was amazing to me, but could lead to boredom for some. Thankfully, we had out guide Timo who made every walk through the rainforest interesting. Reaching the lodge does take about 3.5 hours, but if you embrace this part of the journey it only makes everything better. Once we arrived, I found the lodge to be absolutely amazing given its remote location. There will be bugs and there will be loud animal sounds, I think it’s important to remember we are guest in these animals home. Having spent 11 days in Peru prior to this trip, I can confidently say that the food at the lodge was the best we had consistently enjoyed throughout our travels. We also had the opportunity to work with other guides in Peru, all of whom were booked through reputable companies, but none compared to our guide, Timo, in terms of his English proficiency and extensive knowledge. The bar manager was also a highlight; he was very knowledgeable about alcohol and offered great recommendations and was able to make a variety of drinks based on what we were wanting to experience. All of the staff at Tambopata were very friendly and always had a smile on their face, especially the busser, I unfortunately missed his name, but he was great and so friendly. From start to finish, the trip was filled with incredible moments, largely thanks to our amazing guide, Timo. Timo was hands down the most knowledgeable guide I have ever encountered. His expertise about the rainforest was impressive, and he had an uncanny ability to spot wildlife that we would have completely missed without him. It was raining one day and we were willing to go out in the rain and Timo was right there with us. We had the chance to see a wide variety of animals, far exceeding my expectations.Timo also provided us with extensive knowledge about the plants and trees, helping us to understand the ecosystem as a whole. I was seriously blown away by how much he knew about the rainforest. Timo’s insights made the experience not just about the wildlife we saw, but also about the profound interconnectedness of life in the rainforest. We also appreciated Timo’s insight about the nature of wildlife viewing in the rainforest; some days were bustling with activity while others were quieter. I think it’s important for anyone wanting to travel to the Amazon to remember, this is a vast ecosystem with thousands of acres of wilderness- not a zoo. Overall, my time at the Tambopata Research Center was filled with awe-inspiring moments, and I learned so much about the rainforest. I highly recommend this experience to anyone looking to connect deeply with nature. Just remember to go with the flow and appreciate the rainforest for what it is! Read all

Fantastic lodge and research station deep in the reserve and the Amazon forest far from all visible signs of humanity, dense rainforest teeming with birds, animals, insects - it balances the discomfort of the steamy forest heat and biting insects perfectly with a little luxury when you are not out on excursions in the jungle - exactly what one would want from an Amazon experience. Read all

This lodge is a bit of a splurge, but for me, totally worth it. The staff were, without exception, cheerful, friendly and helpful. Our guide, Dino, was a true professional: a calm presence and a genius at spotting wildlife, and having no more than seven people in our group at all times was a plus (the other Rainforest Expeditions lodges have up to ten). We opted for a Comfort Room, and it was lovely; spacious and attractive, with a hammock and a terrific shower. The biggest surprise for me was the food, which was consistently terrific. Finally, it is clear to me that Rainforest Expeditions is truly committed to environmental preservation and giving back to the local community. As for the rainforest itself, it was interesting and we saw lots of wildlife, but don't expect it to be like an African safari. You can walk for a long time without seeing much, and often the animals are far way or well hidden (this is one reason group size matters; we often took turns looking through our guide's high-powered telescopic lens). Also, your experience will depend a lot on the weather. Two of the days we were there were quite nice; the other two were oppressively, stultifyingly hot and humid. Read all

We had an amazing time during our trip to the Tambopata Research Center. The staff make your stay as comfortable as possible, and the food is delicious. From the moment they collect you at the airport, you don’t have to worry about anything - you’ll be in good hands. Our guide, Boris, did an incredible job of planning our daily activities, and we were spoiled to see and learn about the incredible wildlife - parrots, macaws, monkeys, capybara, innumerable insects, and more! This is a fantastic trip is highly recommended if you are keen on science, nature, and not too fussed about some pretty big bugs! We did a 3-night, 2-day trip (with a travel day on both sides), and would recommend one more day if you can swing it! Read all

This is not a resort but rather a very nice and comfortable eco lodge to view wildlife with friendly and knowledgeable staff. Keep in mind that there is a lot of walking and stairs (almost 0.5 miles) to get to the lodge from the water transport river bank where you are dropped off. The clean spacious rooms are open air concept with mosquito nets for the beds and you can listen to rainforest creatures all night. The activities they offer are diverse (e.g., night hikes, water excursions to see caimans, otters and bird watching, visit to local farm and 40 meter observation tower). You are fed well with breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets. Many thanks to our tour guide Luis M. for his extensive knowledge of the rainforest and keen eyes/ears to find hidden creatures while keeping our group safe. Read all

Fint och trevligt ställe inne i regnskogen. Maten var enkel men god, serverat som buffé. Vatten från egen brunn fanns för påfyllning i medhavda vattenflaskor (fanns att köpa om man missat). Kaffe och te fanns alltid tillgängligt men var oftast kallt och svagt. Mycket häftiga rum som är helt öppna mot naturen på en sida. Var beredd på besök av smådjur och insekter. Gästerna fick komma överens om vilka aktiviteter vi ville genomföra med guiden på plats. Turerna var bra men med mycket tidiga starter. För oss som hade värmebölja med temperaturer uppåt 40 grader passade detta bra. Read all

Our 3-night stay at the Tambopata research was an experience we will never forget. Everything was well coordinated starting with our pickup at the airport. We then took a 10 min bus ride to the Rainforest Expeditions office where a busload of us all repacked our stuff into 30 lb duffel bags. The remainder of our items stayed at the office. Next, we got back on the bus for a 90-minute ride to the boat dock. Along the way, we had a box lunch and had an overview of the area and our upcoming days. Once on the boat, the guides slowed down for wildlife photo ops of capybaras and the many birds we saw. When we arrived at the lodge, Mary gave an overview of the facility while our bags were taken to our room which was a 10-minute walk from the main lodge/dining area on an elevated boardwalk in the rainforest. The room as advertised was open on one side to the rainforest and yes, we did have some nighttime visitors, but the mosquito netting kept them off us. The room was spacious and well-appointed with a fridge, ceiling fan, water, etc. At dinner we met our own personal rainforest guide – Timo. We made our plans for the next day which included a 5AM boat ride to the clay lick where we saw the most amazing macaws. Timo was very knowledgeable, fluent in English and well equipped with a telescope which provided some great pix even with using just an iPhone. Timo also took us on several hikes around the facility and up to the top of the canopy tower where we saw various species on monkeys and more birds. Each evening there were lectures presented by the researchers on various topics. Then there was the food! Each meal was freshly made and well prepared. Quite a variety for all tastes. The food is amazing and goes quickly so be sure to load up your plate. And the bar had a decent variety of beer, wine and liquor! We spent more at Tambopata than we normally would, but I can say it was definitely well worth it!! Read all

Had an amazing stay of 3 nights here. Guide (Lucia) was fantastic, even having a phone attachment to allow you to take photos through her telescope and get fantastic shots, and much of the trip was solo with her. The lodge had blazing fast wifi, mix of craft beers, and was very comfortable (as long as you don't mind the odd butterfly or frog wandering into your room). Friendly service and really well organized w/ lots of variety of things to do - I happened to stumble across a giant Harpy Eagle right outside the lodge, just incredible. Only thing that could be improved is more variety of food and condiments to spice it up, but it is in the middle of the rainforest after all Read all

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