THE BIGGER PICTURE of the Smallest Ones

Stories

Rainforest Research: The Bigger Picture

I’m an explorer, biologist, and wildlife photographer specializing in macrophotography and integrated systems ecology. I travel the world’s Equatorial rainforests to document and share the earth’s most diverse ecosystems to highlight the tremendous adaptations and diversity of the microfauna.

At this moment – I find myself thrust back into the humid night air, alive with the drill of cicadas, the chorus of frogs, and the ominous hum of mosquitoes; camera traps, drones,s and DSLRs strapped to my back, ready for adventure. I’m visiting the Tambopata Research Center, almost eight hours upriver from the nearest town in the Peruvian Amazon, observing, photographing, and attempting to shed light on some seldom-seen behaviors.

Tambopata Research Center

Tambopata Research Center – lodge and research facilities surrounded by pristine forests.

The forests around TRC are pristine…

These types of rainforests are essential not just to the animals, that call them home, but also to the researchers that use them as a control group and barometer to greater understand human impacts and aid in restoration efforts. Inasmuch as the rainforest functions as a complex, integrated system, the TRC functions as a kind of hub, where scientists and investigators, the experts in their respective fields can come from all over the world, meet, and collaborate to better understand this web of interactions which no one discipline can tackle alone. This sharing of information, the facilities and the inclusive, participatory stemming from ecotourism is truly what distinguishes this unique lodge-research center.

And that’s where I come in: the small stuff…

An ecosystem is defined as a community of biological organisms, and their interactions with one another and with the environment. This refers to millions of species. It is mind-boggling. It’s easy to focus on the ‘famous’ species – like the jaguars and harpy eagles, however, most of what constitutes the biomass of the rainforest are the organisms that pass unnoticed, and underfoot, each one with a rich and complicated history, full of intrigue. From the entomopathogenic fungi that germinate on their oblivious hosts, infecting them and ultimately taking control of their very brains to redirect their behaviors, to the mutualistic relationships between the sap-sucking homopterans and their ant care-takers to the caterpillars arrayed in aposematic coloration and defensive armature locked in an evolutionary arms race with both its plant hosts and its would-be predators. The ants shape the environment.

Sporodiniella umbellata

A very rare and potentially new species of entomopathogenic fungus (Sporodiniella umbellata) has parasitized an ichneumon wasp (which ironically is a parasitoid itself). These fungi will invade the brains of their hosts and even modify their behavior to facilitate spore dispersal.

On my rainforest research…

I saw the interaction between ants and sap-sucking bugs (homopterans) as a fascinating case of mutualism and opportunism. Ants protect and essentially farm the treehoppers seen here in exchange for a sugary exudate, honeydew, which is carbohydrate-rich and produced in copious quantities. When a treehopper´s production wanes, the ant will pull the treehopper nymph from the branch and displace it to another area of the plant to maximize productivity.

saturniid caterpillar (Automeris sp.)

The bright colors used to display toxicity in thisare called aposematism. Colors plus large defensive spines = a very strong don’t touch my message! Few predators will risk the pain and future potential for infection resulting from an encounter with such a heavily armed caterpillar.

In a world where a fungus affects an ant that shapes the environment, which affects the jaguars, isn’t that worth knowing about?

Tropical rainforests are the most complicated ecosystems on the planet, and the Amazon, being the largest tract of unbroken rainforest in the world, has come to epitomize this. Studying the myriad of interactions that make up this ecosystem is a technical, and logistical challenge. Though we have come a long way since our Victorian predecessors who often appeared to wage war on the very nature they studied, the modern-day study still requires herculean efforts from researchers who spend months in the field often in remote and grueling conditions, exposed to disease, parasites, and wild animals, not to mention isolation. However, through technological innovations, and an increasing array of both fields (UAVs, camera traps, remote sensing technologies, thermal imagery,) and laboratory tools (genetic sequencing) we are able to both acquire the raw data and analyze it in an unprecedented manner.

Visiting the Amazon gives us a rare view into this psychedelic world of mind-bending adaptations, strategies to astonish and inspire, and perhaps lessons to be learned. Adventure awaits – keep your binoculars handy, and your magnifying glass at the ready, and let’s delve into diversity…

In the coming weeks, I’ll be exploring three additional natural history stories that will amaze, impress, and renew one’s appreciation for the rainforests and their inhabitants which hopefully everyone will have the opportunity to visit, either in person or through the Wired Amazon project.

By Paul Betner

  • What our guest say

    • Valuation Excellent
    • 5/5

Alan U November 2024

Neal H November 2024

Sergio J October 2024

Megan Jackson October 2024

Hayley October 2024

Jonathan K October 2024

Jonathan Krejci October 2024

Hannah E October 2024

Dave L October 2024

Magnus O October 2024

David G October 2024

T T October 2024

I am normally not a nature-oriented person but spending a few days in the rainforest was mind-blowing. Our guide, Juan Carlos, was knowledgeable, passionate about his work, and a fun person to go on a several hours long hike to boot. He made sure we were taking the activities at our own pace, answered all our questions and had a seemingly endless knowledge of the plants and animals. The lodge is located in a protected area of the rainforest and as a result, the biodiversity is amazing and the staff are very respectful and protective of the wildlife. For a note on the lodging, late september is the end of dry season and also the hottest time of year. If I were to come back, I would upgrade to a room with a fan as there is no AC in the facility. Lodging was clean and I personally enjoyed the chance to unplug and sleep so close to nature. Without hyperbole this was a once in a lifetime experience and I cannot recommend it enough. Read all

We had the experience of a lifetime at Posada Amazonas! For our first trip ever to Peru, we wanted to see as much of the country as possible, and started our journey here. Everything went seamlessly- from the pick up at the airport, check in at the office, to the delicious lunch on the boat during our transfer. The next 3 days were filled with wonderful experiences including the canopy hike, oxbow lake cruise, sunset cruise and more. Luis was our guide extraordinaire. His knowledge and ability to spot interesting flora and fauna were amazing. The rooms are clean and spacious and perfect to experience the jungle. You haven't lived until you are awakened by the calls of howler monkeys at 4:15am! Highly recommended! Read all

We had a truly amazing time at Tambopata Research Center and its sister lodge, Refugio. Days were filled with long walks in the jungle to see all the incredible wildlife and plant life, the evening talks with the researchers were thoroughly enjoyable and inspiring, and meals with like minded travelers were a pleasure. Our rooms were extremely comfortable and well laid out, the food was varied, healthy and tasty, and the staff really went out of their way to ensure we had everything we needed and that our stay was going well. Truly couldn't recommend this experience more. Read all

My husband and I recently had the opportunity to visit the Tambopata Research Center in the Amazon rainforest, and it was truly an unforgettable experience! We did the 5 day, 4 night experience, which was so worth it. I personally think this is the perfect amount of time as it gave us the flexibility to have more opportunities to see wildlife, but also moments of relaxing at the lodge. We booked the trip through Tambopata Travel, with Mike. He was extremely helpful, very organized, and answered all 5 million questions I had haha. He was a very effective communicator and I would recommend anyone and everyone use him to help plan your rainforest experience. Before I get to my review, my only recommendation to the center would be for them to incorporate more of a variety of activities. A majority of the available activities are equivalent to walking around the rainforest looking for animals and learning about the surroundings. Which was amazing to me, but could lead to boredom for some. Thankfully, we had out guide Timo who made every walk through the rainforest interesting. Reaching the lodge does take about 3.5 hours, but if you embrace this part of the journey it only makes everything better. Once we arrived, I found the lodge to be absolutely amazing given its remote location. There will be bugs and there will be loud animal sounds, I think it’s important to remember we are guest in these animals home. Having spent 11 days in Peru prior to this trip, I can confidently say that the food at the lodge was the best we had consistently enjoyed throughout our travels. We also had the opportunity to work with other guides in Peru, all of whom were booked through reputable companies, but none compared to our guide, Timo, in terms of his English proficiency and extensive knowledge. The bar manager was also a highlight; he was very knowledgeable about alcohol and offered great recommendations and was able to make a variety of drinks based on what we were wanting to experience. All of the staff at Tambopata were very friendly and always had a smile on their face, especially the busser, I unfortunately missed his name, but he was great and so friendly. From start to finish, the trip was filled with incredible moments, largely thanks to our amazing guide, Timo. Timo was hands down the most knowledgeable guide I have ever encountered. His expertise about the rainforest was impressive, and he had an uncanny ability to spot wildlife that we would have completely missed without him. It was raining one day and we were willing to go out in the rain and Timo was right there with us. We had the chance to see a wide variety of animals, far exceeding my expectations.Timo also provided us with extensive knowledge about the plants and trees, helping us to understand the ecosystem as a whole. I was seriously blown away by how much he knew about the rainforest. Timo’s insights made the experience not just about the wildlife we saw, but also about the profound interconnectedness of life in the rainforest. We also appreciated Timo’s insight about the nature of wildlife viewing in the rainforest; some days were bustling with activity while others were quieter. I think it’s important for anyone wanting to travel to the Amazon to remember, this is a vast ecosystem with thousands of acres of wilderness- not a zoo. Overall, my time at the Tambopata Research Center was filled with awe-inspiring moments, and I learned so much about the rainforest. I highly recommend this experience to anyone looking to connect deeply with nature. Just remember to go with the flow and appreciate the rainforest for what it is! Read all

Fantastic lodge and research station deep in the reserve and the Amazon forest far from all visible signs of humanity, dense rainforest teeming with birds, animals, insects - it balances the discomfort of the steamy forest heat and biting insects perfectly with a little luxury when you are not out on excursions in the jungle - exactly what one would want from an Amazon experience. Read all

This lodge is a bit of a splurge, but for me, totally worth it. The staff were, without exception, cheerful, friendly and helpful. Our guide, Dino, was a true professional: a calm presence and a genius at spotting wildlife, and having no more than seven people in our group at all times was a plus (the other Rainforest Expeditions lodges have up to ten). We opted for a Comfort Room, and it was lovely; spacious and attractive, with a hammock and a terrific shower. The biggest surprise for me was the food, which was consistently terrific. Finally, it is clear to me that Rainforest Expeditions is truly committed to environmental preservation and giving back to the local community. As for the rainforest itself, it was interesting and we saw lots of wildlife, but don't expect it to be like an African safari. You can walk for a long time without seeing much, and often the animals are far way or well hidden (this is one reason group size matters; we often took turns looking through our guide's high-powered telescopic lens). Also, your experience will depend a lot on the weather. Two of the days we were there were quite nice; the other two were oppressively, stultifyingly hot and humid. Read all

This lodge is a bit of a splurge, but for me, totally worth it. The staff were, without exception, cheerful, friendly and helpful. Our guide, Dino, was a true professional: a calm presence and a genius at spotting wildlife, and having no more than seven people in our group at all times was a plus (the other Rainforest Expeditions lodges have up to ten). We opted for a Comfort Room, and it was lovely; spacious and attractive, with a hammock and a terrific shower. The biggest surprise for me was the food, which was consistently terrific. Finally, it is clear to me that Rainforest Expeditions is truly committed to environmental preservation and giving back to the local community. As for the rainforest itself, it was interesting and we saw lots of wildlife, but don't expect it to be like an African safari. You can walk for a long time without seeing much, and often the animals are far way or well hidden (this is one reason group size matters; we often took turns looking through our guide's high-powered telescopic lens). Also, your experience will depend a lot on the weather. Two of the days we were there were quite nice; the other two were oppressively, stultifyingly hot and humid. Read all

We had an amazing time during our trip to the Tambopata Research Center. The staff make your stay as comfortable as possible, and the food is delicious. From the moment they collect you at the airport, you don’t have to worry about anything - you’ll be in good hands. Our guide, Boris, did an incredible job of planning our daily activities, and we were spoiled to see and learn about the incredible wildlife - parrots, macaws, monkeys, capybara, innumerable insects, and more! This is a fantastic trip is highly recommended if you are keen on science, nature, and not too fussed about some pretty big bugs! We did a 3-night, 2-day trip (with a travel day on both sides), and would recommend one more day if you can swing it! Read all

This is not a resort but rather a very nice and comfortable eco lodge to view wildlife with friendly and knowledgeable staff. Keep in mind that there is a lot of walking and stairs (almost 0.5 miles) to get to the lodge from the water transport river bank where you are dropped off. The clean spacious rooms are open air concept with mosquito nets for the beds and you can listen to rainforest creatures all night. The activities they offer are diverse (e.g., night hikes, water excursions to see caimans, otters and bird watching, visit to local farm and 40 meter observation tower). You are fed well with breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets. Many thanks to our tour guide Luis M. for his extensive knowledge of the rainforest and keen eyes/ears to find hidden creatures while keeping our group safe. Read all

Fint och trevligt ställe inne i regnskogen. Maten var enkel men god, serverat som buffé. Vatten från egen brunn fanns för påfyllning i medhavda vattenflaskor (fanns att köpa om man missat). Kaffe och te fanns alltid tillgängligt men var oftast kallt och svagt. Mycket häftiga rum som är helt öppna mot naturen på en sida. Var beredd på besök av smådjur och insekter. Gästerna fick komma överens om vilka aktiviteter vi ville genomföra med guiden på plats. Turerna var bra men med mycket tidiga starter. För oss som hade värmebölja med temperaturer uppåt 40 grader passade detta bra. Read all

Our 3-night stay at the Tambopata research was an experience we will never forget. Everything was well coordinated starting with our pickup at the airport. We then took a 10 min bus ride to the Rainforest Expeditions office where a busload of us all repacked our stuff into 30 lb duffel bags. The remainder of our items stayed at the office. Next, we got back on the bus for a 90-minute ride to the boat dock. Along the way, we had a box lunch and had an overview of the area and our upcoming days. Once on the boat, the guides slowed down for wildlife photo ops of capybaras and the many birds we saw. When we arrived at the lodge, Mary gave an overview of the facility while our bags were taken to our room which was a 10-minute walk from the main lodge/dining area on an elevated boardwalk in the rainforest. The room as advertised was open on one side to the rainforest and yes, we did have some nighttime visitors, but the mosquito netting kept them off us. The room was spacious and well-appointed with a fridge, ceiling fan, water, etc. At dinner we met our own personal rainforest guide – Timo. We made our plans for the next day which included a 5AM boat ride to the clay lick where we saw the most amazing macaws. Timo was very knowledgeable, fluent in English and well equipped with a telescope which provided some great pix even with using just an iPhone. Timo also took us on several hikes around the facility and up to the top of the canopy tower where we saw various species on monkeys and more birds. Each evening there were lectures presented by the researchers on various topics. Then there was the food! Each meal was freshly made and well prepared. Quite a variety for all tastes. The food is amazing and goes quickly so be sure to load up your plate. And the bar had a decent variety of beer, wine and liquor! We spent more at Tambopata than we normally would, but I can say it was definitely well worth it!! Read all

Had an amazing stay of 3 nights here. Guide (Lucia) was fantastic, even having a phone attachment to allow you to take photos through her telescope and get fantastic shots, and much of the trip was solo with her. The lodge had blazing fast wifi, mix of craft beers, and was very comfortable (as long as you don't mind the odd butterfly or frog wandering into your room). Friendly service and really well organized w/ lots of variety of things to do - I happened to stumble across a giant Harpy Eagle right outside the lodge, just incredible. Only thing that could be improved is more variety of food and condiments to spice it up, but it is in the middle of the rainforest after all Read all

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