THE BIGGER PICTURE of the Smallest Ones

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Rainforest Research: The Bigger Picture

I’m an explorer, biologist, and wildlife photographer specializing in macrophotography and integrated systems ecology. I travel the world’s Equatorial rainforests to document and share the earth’s most diverse ecosystems to highlight the tremendous adaptations and diversity of the microfauna.

At this moment – I find myself thrust back into the humid night air, alive with the drill of cicadas, the chorus of frogs, and the ominous hum of mosquitoes; camera traps, drones,s and DSLRs strapped to my back, ready for adventure. I’m visiting the Tambopata Research Center, almost eight hours upriver from the nearest town in the Peruvian Amazon, observing, photographing, and attempting to shed light on some seldom-seen behaviors.

Tambopata Research Center

Tambopata Research Center – lodge and research facilities surrounded by pristine forests.

The forests around TRC are pristine…

These types of rainforests are essential not just to the animals, that call them home, but also to the researchers that use them as a control group and barometer to greater understand human impacts and aid in restoration efforts. Inasmuch as the rainforest functions as a complex, integrated system, the TRC functions as a kind of hub, where scientists and investigators, the experts in their respective fields can come from all over the world, meet, and collaborate to better understand this web of interactions which no one discipline can tackle alone. This sharing of information, the facilities and the inclusive, participatory stemming from ecotourism is truly what distinguishes this unique lodge-research center.

And that’s where I come in: the small stuff…

An ecosystem is defined as a community of biological organisms, and their interactions with one another and with the environment. This refers to millions of species. It is mind-boggling. It’s easy to focus on the ‘famous’ species – like the jaguars and harpy eagles, however, most of what constitutes the biomass of the rainforest are the organisms that pass unnoticed, and underfoot, each one with a rich and complicated history, full of intrigue. From the entomopathogenic fungi that germinate on their oblivious hosts, infecting them and ultimately taking control of their very brains to redirect their behaviors, to the mutualistic relationships between the sap-sucking homopterans and their ant care-takers to the caterpillars arrayed in aposematic coloration and defensive armature locked in an evolutionary arms race with both its plant hosts and its would-be predators. The ants shape the environment.

Sporodiniella umbellata

A very rare and potentially new species of entomopathogenic fungus (Sporodiniella umbellata) has parasitized an ichneumon wasp (which ironically is a parasitoid itself). These fungi will invade the brains of their hosts and even modify their behavior to facilitate spore dispersal.

On my rainforest research…

I saw the interaction between ants and sap-sucking bugs (homopterans) as a fascinating case of mutualism and opportunism. Ants protect and essentially farm the treehoppers seen here in exchange for a sugary exudate, honeydew, which is carbohydrate-rich and produced in copious quantities. When a treehopper´s production wanes, the ant will pull the treehopper nymph from the branch and displace it to another area of the plant to maximize productivity.

saturniid caterpillar (Automeris sp.)

The bright colors used to display toxicity in thisare called aposematism. Colors plus large defensive spines = a very strong don’t touch my message! Few predators will risk the pain and future potential for infection resulting from an encounter with such a heavily armed caterpillar.

In a world where a fungus affects an ant that shapes the environment, which affects the jaguars, isn’t that worth knowing about?

Tropical rainforests are the most complicated ecosystems on the planet, and the Amazon, being the largest tract of unbroken rainforest in the world, has come to epitomize this. Studying the myriad of interactions that make up this ecosystem is a technical, and logistical challenge. Though we have come a long way since our Victorian predecessors who often appeared to wage war on the very nature they studied, the modern-day study still requires herculean efforts from researchers who spend months in the field often in remote and grueling conditions, exposed to disease, parasites, and wild animals, not to mention isolation. However, through technological innovations, and an increasing array of both fields (UAVs, camera traps, remote sensing technologies, thermal imagery,) and laboratory tools (genetic sequencing) we are able to both acquire the raw data and analyze it in an unprecedented manner.

Visiting the Amazon gives us a rare view into this psychedelic world of mind-bending adaptations, strategies to astonish and inspire, and perhaps lessons to be learned. Adventure awaits – keep your binoculars handy, and your magnifying glass at the ready, and let’s delve into diversity…

In the coming weeks, I’ll be exploring three additional natural history stories that will amaze, impress, and renew one’s appreciation for the rainforests and their inhabitants which hopefully everyone will have the opportunity to visit, either in person or through the Wired Amazon project.

By Paul Betner

  • What our guest say

    • Valuation Excellent
    • 5/5

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Such a wonderful experience deep in a part of the Amazon, Tambopata NP. They really involve you with what is happening at the research centre with evening lectures. The meals are outstanding and the rooms are comfortable and I had the best sleep. Dino our guide was outstanding. The river trip to see the Macaw claylicks was a beautiful outing. We saw Capybaras along the river and it was very scenic. The staff are friendly and very engaging. As a tour operator who sends clients to AFRICA for safari, I was hugely satisfied. Thank you, gracious. Food & drinks: Good was simply delicious Read all

An amazing experience in the Peruvian jungle. the information about the centre was very accurate so I knew what to expect but was blown away by the experience and competence of my guide for the four nights, Juan Carlos Yatto. JC was looking for birds for me from the moment he collected me at the airport, so we saw birds on the drive and on the boat ride as well as on the excursions themselves. I was in Peru three weeks and JC was my best guide by far. Don't miss the clay licks for sure, and the tower is also well worth the climb. Food and people are wonderful and the research very interesting. Read all

Das Tambopata Research Center ist eine wunderbare Lodge im Nationalpark Tambopata. Die charmanten, miteinander verbundenen Aufenthaltsräume und Zimmer befinden sich auf hölzernen Stelzen. Bei den offenen Gemeinschaftsräumen gibt es gemütliche Sitzecken, eine wunderbare Hängemattenrelaxzone und einen herrlichen Restaurantbereich, wo zu jeder Zeit Tee, Kaffee und Wasser zur Verfügung stehen. Die stilvollen Zimmer verfügen über bequeme Betten mit Moskitonetz und moderne, saubere Duschbereiche. Die Research Center Lodge mit den Forschungseinrichtungen liegt inmitten des Regenwaldes umgeben von der reinen Natur mit der fantastischen Flora und Fauna, welche dort auch weiterhin erforscht und geschützt wird. Jeden Abend gibt es dazu sehr interessante Vorträge. Die Mitarbeiter sind sehr freundlich, offen und zuvorkommend. Die Buffets waren sehr köstlich und reichhaltig mit Gerichten aus der Region. Es wird großer Wert auf ökologische und nachhaltig umweltschonende Bewirtschaftung gelegt. Von der Lodge aus ist es möglich, mit ausgebildeten Guides in Gruppen von maximal 6 Personen verschiedene Exkursionen zu machen. Speziell Timo war ausgesprochen freundlich, auf unsere Sicherheit bedacht, ging auf die individuellen Interessen der einzelnen Personen ein und vermittelte uns in seiner kompetenten Art umfangreiches Wissen über die Pflanzen- und Tierwelt. Er hatte dabei die wunderbare Fähigkeit, versteckte Wildtiere zu entdecken, und verschaffte uns wunderschöne Momente, auch durch das mitgetragene Teleskop, wodurch wir der Tierwelt näher sein konnten. So sahen wir u.a. Brüllaffen, Kapuzineraffen und Spideraffen mit ihren Kindern, viele Vögel insbesondere Papageien wie z.B. Scharlach- und Gelbbauch-Aras sowie Wasserschweine und verschiedene Insekten. Wir können diese wunderbare Lodge absolut weiterempfehlen. Die herrliche Tier- und Pflanzenwelt in dem wunderbar erhaltenen und geschützten Regenwald des Amazonas war auf unserer Peru-Reise ein wirklich fantastisches Erlebnis! Read all

Rainforest Expeditions is a wonderful company and the Posadas Amazonas lodge is a beautiful location to spend your time in the Amazon. The staff are all incredibly kind, helpful, and knowledgeable. The tours were very fun and we saw lots of animals including River otters, monkeys, birds, and capybaras. We loved our guide Luis and all the people we met. The food was delicious and locally grown and there was never a dull moment. Would highly recommend! Read all

I went to Posada as part of a wider group trip, so did not pay for it directly. The lodge feels very far from anywhere and yet it feels incredibly safe. The rooms are open to nature, but nothing was ever damaged (use the safe boxes as advised, especially for food - not that you'll need any - the catering is excellent, with plenty of vegetarian options, and snacks are also provided between meals). There are flushing toilets, incredible shower facilities and the beds are very comfortable with mosquito nets placed at night by the staff. Drinking water vats are strategicvally placed throughout the lodge but you may have a long-ish walk to the common areas through corridors. Some parts of the corridors are open to the elements, but umbrellas are provided everywhere in case of rain. There is obviously no air conditioning, but this helps you acclimatise. The lodge is run by a family and others from the Infierno community, which gives the place a homely feel, with resident tour guides and a local geologist for citizen science projects. Massage services are available and there is a local shop for souvenirs and essentials like bug spray, clothing and torches. Tons of activities can be arranged, but it's also nice to relax in the hammocks and common areas and listen to the sounds of nature. While this hotel is not going to be for everyone, I had the most incredible time! Read all

The place to go if you want to see Macaws in the Peruvian rainforest. We stayed at the Tambopata Reaearch Centre (TRC) for three days and had Juan Carlos Yatto as our guide for the duration of our stay. We loved the mission of the TRC ie Macaw conservation and the link between Macaw nest site availability and the overall health of the rainforest. Juan Carlos Yatto (there is another JC at the research centre) was a fantastic guide and really made a difference to our experience at the TRC. His knowledge of the different species of wildlife and plants was amazing, his ability to spot things in the day or at night was phenomenal and he really made things accessible for our group. His English is excellent (including great humour when appropriate) and is a super guy. I really do recommend the TRC abd Juan Carlos Yatto as a guide. We saw an abundance of wildlife of all descriptions thanks to him and learned a huge amount without being overloaded. Read all

Two planes, a bus and a boat…that’s how we made it to TRC, and every minute was worth it. Tambopata is a jewel, from the moment you are greeted by the guide assigned to you (Juan Carlos Gonzales for us) to the last boat ride back to civilization. Juan Carlos was amazing…on just one hike he found five of the seven species of monkeys in the area! He is truly an expert..can hear, see and even SMELL animals, birds and insects to point out to us. We upgraded to a deluxe suite and it was decadent! An elegant outdoor tub and shower on a private balcony was soo nice’ Although we went in the rainy season, it never rained while on a hike or excursion. It rained for a few minutes on our late afternoon cruise , but not enough to dampen our enthusiasm, or prevent us from seeing a capybara in the mid! (And despite the warning of a lot of mosquitoes, I have been bitten more in my own back yard!) The bar is great, there’s PLENTY of food…we are going home feeling so lucky to have had such a great connection to the beauty of the Amazon. Read all

We had a fantastic time for our 3N/4D stay at Tambopata Research Center. The whole experience was marvellous. Rooms and facilities were great and meals superb. The Staff, ably led by Tanya the manager, were all friendly and helpful. This is the only lodge actually inside the Tambopata National Park, and we enjoyed being so "remote". I like that you have one guide who coordinates and takes you on all your activities; Jair our guide was amazing. One morning our planned activity was rained out, and I liked that they have alternative "wet weather" activities planned. There are lectures each night by researchers, which were very interesting. Also citizen science projects that you can participate in. All up, it was a fantastic way to experience the Peruvian Amazon. Read all

Posada Amazonas by Rainforest Expeditions is an extraordinary place. From your arrival at the airport in Puerto Maldonado all the staff is always attentive to your needs. You travel by boat to the hotel Posada Amazonas and it is a unique experience. It really is a total disconnection and a recollection with Mother Nature 🌎 The buffet lunch is delicious (already included in the price). You have a guide who speaks Spanish and English at all times and accompanies you to explore the jungle, the river and other activities. The price is worth it. Outside my room I caught a glimpse of monkeys :) The night sky is starry and very spectacular ✨️ 5 star service. I will definitely come back. Read all

I stayed with my parents at Refugio Amazonas for 3 days. We really enjoyed our stay and had a wonderful time here. The staff were extremely kind and well informed. The lodge manager- Arturo in particular was very helpful. To highlight their culture: They prepared special vegetarian meals for my parents, always ensured we felt comfortable and all our needs were met. A stay here is a must do to get a real feel of the Amazon rainforest on your trip to Peru! Noteworthy details: There are a lot of activities for kids and families to do, but my personal favourites are: Macaw Claylick, OxBow river ride, sunset cruise and the canopy tower. Read all

An incredible and unparalleled experience I felt fortunate Read all

I can't express how amazing our guides were. Incredibly knowledgeable and able to spot birds, frogs, spiders, animals, etc. with an almost unbelievable ability. The research and contributions to the jungle they are making at the Center are to be commended. The facilities were nice and kept clean and the staff was great, but between the walls in the rooms being open to the jungle, the heat, the bugs, underpowered fans, having to completely cover up for hikes due to bugs and then getting overheated, etc. it made for a tough stay. The food was good but after a couple days became repetitive. I would recommend this for serious birders who are willing to endure a bit for an incredible adventure. Read all

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