LEARNING A LITTLE MORE from the Ese Eja People

Stories

The Ese Eja People of Infierno: A Unique Community Partnership

After a quick drive past jungle farms lush with papaya and cacao trees, our visitors arrive in the small town of Infierno, Peru. Many travelers from all over the world know the port town as the starting point for their Amazon Tour. But Infierno is much more than a point of departure. Home to the Ese Eja community, an indigenous people of the Amazon, the town has played a crucial role in Rainforest Expeditions’ success since the start of the community partnership.

In celebration of this week’s UN Indigenous Peoples Day, I spoke with Jesús Duran, the Account Manager at Rainforest Expeditions, to get a better sense of Infierno’s decades-long relationship with the lodges. Jesús grew up in Infierno and is committed to the community’s development through sustainable tourism.

A story behind an ecotourism project

When Jesús was a boy, he lived in Infierno — a small town along the Tambopata River — until adolescence. There, and even more, once he moved to nearby Puerto Maldonado city, he saw the discrimination, lack of economic opportunity, and social challenges that the Ese Eja community faced in the region.

At the same time, Jesús began to see tourism come to Tambopata in the early 1990s. The industry seemed to offer a promising alternative to local subsistence fishing and farming, and soon enough, Jesús and his brother both joined the new industry. Armed with his ambition and hard work, he studied tourism at a local school, working his way up from lodge waiter to tour guide to globe-trotting account manager.

Working in travel, he says, «You really get to know yourself and learn to solve any kind of problem.» Today, Jesús travels the world representing Rainforest Expeditions — this small-town boy from the Amazon Rainforest has visited Japan, China, North America, Europe, and more.

Frecuently asked questions to visit the peruvian amazon Tambopata

The Tambopata National Reserve in Madre de Dios, Peru is one of the most biodiverse places on Earth, but only visited by 6% of the tourists that get to Peru.

But despite his cosmopolitan life in Lima today, Jesús hasn’t forgotten his roots in Infierno, the community that raised him and provided the local insights crucial to his success. Luckily, the Native Community of Infierno serves as Rainforest Expeditions’ partner at the Posada Amazonas lodge. In fact, the Ese Eja People own the lodge, largely manage it, and receive most of its profits! Jesús still gets the chance to work with the community on many joint initiatives.

In 1996, the Infierno community and Rainforest Expeditions began their partnership, dedicated to conserving the natural environment and cultural heritage of the Ese Eja, and using ecotourism as a powerful tool to do so. Since then, Jesús has seen firsthand the ways tourism has transformed Infierno. «Before ecotourism, the Ese Eja were very marginalized in the Western World,» he says, «with few resources and little access to education.»

POSADA AMAZONAS

Posada Amazonas Lodge, nestled inside 9.5k hectares of protected forest by the Ese Eja of Infierno Native Community

Thanks to ecotourism, many people have returned to the community

While economic development always brings a mixed bag of changes, Jesús believes ecotourism has been a positive transformation for the community. «Thanks to tourism, many people have returned to the community, because now they can find good opportunities for work there,» he says. «Now the community has a higher quality of life. Young people can study in university, with a different level of education.»

Even more than this economic transformation, Jesús saw firsthand how tourism has changed the way community members relate to the world. «Today Infierno has more resources» and is able to stand up for its legal, cultural, and environmental rights, he explains. «Money is a tool to effect change — they can hire a lawyer, dissent or complain about conditions, even go to Lima to petition the government.»

Legal, cultural, and environmental rights towards sustainable development

Now, the partnership between Rainforest Expeditions and the Native Community of Infierno is growing even more. The Ese Eja were interested in sharing more of their culture, not only their natural surroundings, with international visitors. That led to the creation of cultural activities offered at our lodges, in which guests can spend some hours learning about Ese Eja traditions, artisanry, and food with locals. «I love that the community has decided to share its heritage in this way,» Jesús says. «Visitors’ trips are enriched when they learn about local culture. Without disrupting locals’ day-to-day life, travelers can get to know the Infierno community and its traditions.»

Soon, the partnership will deepen further as the community and lodge collaborate on heritage preservation projects, including a traditional dance initiative and Ese Eja language education for the town’s children. «The goal is the recovery of Ese Eja culture,» Jesús explains, «that their culture is recognized and respected, and that the community feels pride in their own culture.»

The Ese Eja community has contributed so much to Rainforest Expeditions, enriching an ecotourism venture with local knowledge, culture, and appreciation of the environment. «This is what rural community tourism should look like,» Jesús says. «Infierno community members are no longer afraid to say, ‘I am Ese Eja, and I am an entrepreneur.'»

by MerinMcDivitt

NOW READ: Unveiling 5 Cultural Activities in the Peruvian Amazon + Exclusive Bonus with Video

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Such a wonderful experience deep in a part of the Amazon, Tambopata NP. They really involve you with what is happening at the research centre with evening lectures. The meals are outstanding and the rooms are comfortable and I had the best sleep. Dino our guide was outstanding. The river trip to see the Macaw claylicks was a beautiful outing. We saw Capybaras along the river and it was very scenic. The staff are friendly and very engaging. As a tour operator who sends clients to AFRICA for safari, I was hugely satisfied. Thank you, gracious. Food & drinks: Good was simply delicious Read all

An amazing experience in the Peruvian jungle. the information about the centre was very accurate so I knew what to expect but was blown away by the experience and competence of my guide for the four nights, Juan Carlos Yatto. JC was looking for birds for me from the moment he collected me at the airport, so we saw birds on the drive and on the boat ride as well as on the excursions themselves. I was in Peru three weeks and JC was my best guide by far. Don't miss the clay licks for sure, and the tower is also well worth the climb. Food and people are wonderful and the research very interesting. Read all

Das Tambopata Research Center ist eine wunderbare Lodge im Nationalpark Tambopata. Die charmanten, miteinander verbundenen Aufenthaltsräume und Zimmer befinden sich auf hölzernen Stelzen. Bei den offenen Gemeinschaftsräumen gibt es gemütliche Sitzecken, eine wunderbare Hängemattenrelaxzone und einen herrlichen Restaurantbereich, wo zu jeder Zeit Tee, Kaffee und Wasser zur Verfügung stehen. Die stilvollen Zimmer verfügen über bequeme Betten mit Moskitonetz und moderne, saubere Duschbereiche. Die Research Center Lodge mit den Forschungseinrichtungen liegt inmitten des Regenwaldes umgeben von der reinen Natur mit der fantastischen Flora und Fauna, welche dort auch weiterhin erforscht und geschützt wird. Jeden Abend gibt es dazu sehr interessante Vorträge. Die Mitarbeiter sind sehr freundlich, offen und zuvorkommend. Die Buffets waren sehr köstlich und reichhaltig mit Gerichten aus der Region. Es wird großer Wert auf ökologische und nachhaltig umweltschonende Bewirtschaftung gelegt. Von der Lodge aus ist es möglich, mit ausgebildeten Guides in Gruppen von maximal 6 Personen verschiedene Exkursionen zu machen. Speziell Timo war ausgesprochen freundlich, auf unsere Sicherheit bedacht, ging auf die individuellen Interessen der einzelnen Personen ein und vermittelte uns in seiner kompetenten Art umfangreiches Wissen über die Pflanzen- und Tierwelt. Er hatte dabei die wunderbare Fähigkeit, versteckte Wildtiere zu entdecken, und verschaffte uns wunderschöne Momente, auch durch das mitgetragene Teleskop, wodurch wir der Tierwelt näher sein konnten. So sahen wir u.a. Brüllaffen, Kapuzineraffen und Spideraffen mit ihren Kindern, viele Vögel insbesondere Papageien wie z.B. Scharlach- und Gelbbauch-Aras sowie Wasserschweine und verschiedene Insekten. Wir können diese wunderbare Lodge absolut weiterempfehlen. Die herrliche Tier- und Pflanzenwelt in dem wunderbar erhaltenen und geschützten Regenwald des Amazonas war auf unserer Peru-Reise ein wirklich fantastisches Erlebnis! Read all

Rainforest Expeditions is a wonderful company and the Posadas Amazonas lodge is a beautiful location to spend your time in the Amazon. The staff are all incredibly kind, helpful, and knowledgeable. The tours were very fun and we saw lots of animals including River otters, monkeys, birds, and capybaras. We loved our guide Luis and all the people we met. The food was delicious and locally grown and there was never a dull moment. Would highly recommend! Read all

I went to Posada as part of a wider group trip, so did not pay for it directly. The lodge feels very far from anywhere and yet it feels incredibly safe. The rooms are open to nature, but nothing was ever damaged (use the safe boxes as advised, especially for food - not that you'll need any - the catering is excellent, with plenty of vegetarian options, and snacks are also provided between meals). There are flushing toilets, incredible shower facilities and the beds are very comfortable with mosquito nets placed at night by the staff. Drinking water vats are strategicvally placed throughout the lodge but you may have a long-ish walk to the common areas through corridors. Some parts of the corridors are open to the elements, but umbrellas are provided everywhere in case of rain. There is obviously no air conditioning, but this helps you acclimatise. The lodge is run by a family and others from the Infierno community, which gives the place a homely feel, with resident tour guides and a local geologist for citizen science projects. Massage services are available and there is a local shop for souvenirs and essentials like bug spray, clothing and torches. Tons of activities can be arranged, but it's also nice to relax in the hammocks and common areas and listen to the sounds of nature. While this hotel is not going to be for everyone, I had the most incredible time! Read all

The place to go if you want to see Macaws in the Peruvian rainforest. We stayed at the Tambopata Reaearch Centre (TRC) for three days and had Juan Carlos Yatto as our guide for the duration of our stay. We loved the mission of the TRC ie Macaw conservation and the link between Macaw nest site availability and the overall health of the rainforest. Juan Carlos Yatto (there is another JC at the research centre) was a fantastic guide and really made a difference to our experience at the TRC. His knowledge of the different species of wildlife and plants was amazing, his ability to spot things in the day or at night was phenomenal and he really made things accessible for our group. His English is excellent (including great humour when appropriate) and is a super guy. I really do recommend the TRC abd Juan Carlos Yatto as a guide. We saw an abundance of wildlife of all descriptions thanks to him and learned a huge amount without being overloaded. Read all

Two planes, a bus and a boat…that’s how we made it to TRC, and every minute was worth it. Tambopata is a jewel, from the moment you are greeted by the guide assigned to you (Juan Carlos Gonzales for us) to the last boat ride back to civilization. Juan Carlos was amazing…on just one hike he found five of the seven species of monkeys in the area! He is truly an expert..can hear, see and even SMELL animals, birds and insects to point out to us. We upgraded to a deluxe suite and it was decadent! An elegant outdoor tub and shower on a private balcony was soo nice’ Although we went in the rainy season, it never rained while on a hike or excursion. It rained for a few minutes on our late afternoon cruise , but not enough to dampen our enthusiasm, or prevent us from seeing a capybara in the mid! (And despite the warning of a lot of mosquitoes, I have been bitten more in my own back yard!) The bar is great, there’s PLENTY of food…we are going home feeling so lucky to have had such a great connection to the beauty of the Amazon. Read all

We had a fantastic time for our 3N/4D stay at Tambopata Research Center. The whole experience was marvellous. Rooms and facilities were great and meals superb. The Staff, ably led by Tanya the manager, were all friendly and helpful. This is the only lodge actually inside the Tambopata National Park, and we enjoyed being so "remote". I like that you have one guide who coordinates and takes you on all your activities; Jair our guide was amazing. One morning our planned activity was rained out, and I liked that they have alternative "wet weather" activities planned. There are lectures each night by researchers, which were very interesting. Also citizen science projects that you can participate in. All up, it was a fantastic way to experience the Peruvian Amazon. Read all

Posada Amazonas by Rainforest Expeditions is an extraordinary place. From your arrival at the airport in Puerto Maldonado all the staff is always attentive to your needs. You travel by boat to the hotel Posada Amazonas and it is a unique experience. It really is a total disconnection and a recollection with Mother Nature 🌎 The buffet lunch is delicious (already included in the price). You have a guide who speaks Spanish and English at all times and accompanies you to explore the jungle, the river and other activities. The price is worth it. Outside my room I caught a glimpse of monkeys :) The night sky is starry and very spectacular ✨️ 5 star service. I will definitely come back. Read all

I stayed with my parents at Refugio Amazonas for 3 days. We really enjoyed our stay and had a wonderful time here. The staff were extremely kind and well informed. The lodge manager- Arturo in particular was very helpful. To highlight their culture: They prepared special vegetarian meals for my parents, always ensured we felt comfortable and all our needs were met. A stay here is a must do to get a real feel of the Amazon rainforest on your trip to Peru! Noteworthy details: There are a lot of activities for kids and families to do, but my personal favourites are: Macaw Claylick, OxBow river ride, sunset cruise and the canopy tower. Read all

An incredible and unparalleled experience I felt fortunate Read all

I can't express how amazing our guides were. Incredibly knowledgeable and able to spot birds, frogs, spiders, animals, etc. with an almost unbelievable ability. The research and contributions to the jungle they are making at the Center are to be commended. The facilities were nice and kept clean and the staff was great, but between the walls in the rooms being open to the jungle, the heat, the bugs, underpowered fans, having to completely cover up for hikes due to bugs and then getting overheated, etc. it made for a tough stay. The food was good but after a couple days became repetitive. I would recommend this for serious birders who are willing to endure a bit for an incredible adventure. Read all

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