WHY CHOOSE Tambopata over other destinations

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Travel to Tambopata or Manu or Iquitos?

It’s worth asking: is it the right question? When do you ask yourself if you have to travel to Tambopata or Manu or Iquitos? Are we leaving important Amazonian destinations out? And the answer is YES, it is the right question, and NO we are not leaving any important Amazonian destinations out. You may have heard of Tarapoto, Huanuco, or the Selva Central (San Ramon, Oxapampa).

These are all fine and dandy if you’re a birdwatcher. Otherwise, the access vs nature/wildlife cost-benefit analysis just doesn’t cut it. At each of these places, you have to travel further for lesser quality wildlife/nature than at Tambopata. So, we will stick with our original question. And we will answer this question with our two-dimensional lens: access vs nature.

Before getting started, let me say each destination has a mature service offering. What this means is you will find tour and lodging services ranging from homestays with a warm welcome but no running water to some of the world’s most exclusive nature experiences.

Here we go!

 

Tambopata and the Puerto Maldonado area

There are three main reasons to travel to Tambopata

  1. You want a good to great nature and wildlife experience
  2. You want to see the world-famous Macaw Clay Licks that showed up in National Geographic, BBC, etc
  3. You don’t have much time.  The good to great gradient for nature and wildlife depends on your time. If you’ve got four days (or more) you will get a great experience. If not, you will get a good one.

Here is why.

  • Access to Tambopata

We are bunching up two Trip Advisor (and Lonely Planet, and Rough Guide, etc) destinations in this section: Tambopata and Puerto Maldonado. They really are the same from the perspective of access. To get to both, you fly to the Puerto Aldamiz airport from Cusco or Lima. There are daily flights (LATAM, Sky Airline) only 30 minutes from Cusco o 1.5 horas de Lima. Once in Puerto Maldonado, all lodges are accessible by river. The closest (Reserva Amazonica) is 30 minutes away.

 

The furthest (Tambopata Research Center) is 7 hours away (accessible now for a 3.5 hrs journey). Your principal concern here should be: am I staying close to the Tambopata National Reserve? And close means INSIDE or ADJACENT to the Tambopata National Reserve. If so, you will get plenty of wildlife. If not – mmmeeeehhh, you are going to have a dropoff in the quality of nature/wildlife experience.  Dr. Varun Swamy actually put it in numbers. He measured monkey density in four locations around Madre de Dios. We placed two of them on a map of Tambopata and surrounding areas to help you visualize the difference.

So, in terms of access – first, check if you are adjacent (i.e. on the same side of the river) to the Tambopata National Reserve. Second try to wrangle four (or more) vacation days for Tambopata. More days = more wildlife observation opportunities and more time to push further into the Reserve

chuncho clay lick by paul bertner

Macaw Claylick by Paul Bertner in Tambopata Peru

  • Nature and Wildlife of Tambopata

Nature and wildlife in Tambopata are in good shape. The reserve has been protected since 1990. Before then it was too difficult to get to, so suffered little hunting, fishing, or logging. A three-day trip into the Tambopata National Reserve should produce 3 to 5 species of monkeys (howler monkey, brown capuchin monkey, dusky titi monkey, saddleback tamarin, and squirrel monkeys), agouti and capybara (world largest rodent), white caiman, and giant river otters (if you visit an oxbow lake) and dozens of species of birds.

 

Don’t forget the treehoppers, scorpion wasps, dung beetles, army ants, tiger moths, and millions (literally) of species of insects. You may even discover a new one. A four-day trip (or more) will take you into the heart of the reserve and add the world-famous macaw clay licks, a 40% chance of seeing jaguar (depending on the season), spider monkeys, and herds of one hundred white-lipped peccary. It’s hard to believe one day makes all the difference. The reason is the “defaunation shadow” we talk about below. In Tambopata / Puerto Maldonado the shadow reaches the reserve boundary– and stops. In that extra day: you cross it.

Check out the wildlife here!

Book with us here!

Manu National Park and the Cloud Forest Road

There are two main reasons to go to Manu:

  1. You are a birdwatcher
  2. You have plenty of time (a week or more).

BTW, cancel if you hate bumpy roads or small aircraft (bi-motors, and such). Bonus reason: meet the Machiguenga.

Here is why. And yes, we touch upon Nature / Wildlife first for a reason.

  • Nature and Wildlife in Manu

Manu is one of the two gold standards in Amazonian protected areas open to tourism. The other is Tambopata (see above). There are no equivalent nature tourism experiences in the Amazon (until Colombia opens up!). Like Tambopata, Manu has declared a National Park in 1974, before any kind of serious farming, logging, hunting ate it up. Steep mountain ranges with impenetrable cloud forests protect them from squatters and loggers.

It is the only one (including Tambopata) that has vast swaths of an accessible cloud forest. Unlike Tambopata, the Manu Cloud Forest is accessible by road. Thus, in Manu, you get Tambopata plus the cloud forest. That means you get woolly monkeys and cock-of-the-rock. And you add one hundred plus species of flycatchers, antbirds, tanagers, and hummers to your bird list. That is why, if you are a birdwatcher, Manu is your first choice. However, if you are not…

cock of the rock peru

  • Access to Manu

Getting to Manu is tough! The Manu Road begins in Cusco and climbs and descends two ridges. It is long (8-10 hours in the dry season) and super bumpy. Not recommended in the rainy season (November through March) as you might get stuck waiting for a mudslide to be cleared. Once you are in the lowlands you still have 4 to 10-hour boat rides, depending on where you are headed. And don’t forget your way back. Chartered small aircraft can get you to the lowlands in no time at all so ask your operator about them. One year they are there, the next one they aren’t. Keep your eyes peeled.

In summary, to repeat what we started out with – if you have the time for a one-week expedition to the Manu area and don’t mind roughing the transport bit, go for it!

And not to forget our bonus reason: Meet the Machiguenga. Machiguenga communities have opened up to tourism with lodge operations in the past 15 years. Check out Casa Machiguenga and Pankotsi Manu Lodge. If you don’t mind modest lodging and food services you will learn a lot from the super friendly and fun-loving Machiguenga. As I tell my kids – in the most exclusive places in Peru, you sleep on the ground.

And worth repeating one final time: if you want to figure out how to choose your Manu jungle lodge operator, we recommend you download our very own (and free) ebook: How to Choose a Jungle Lodge. If you can afford the time, go to Machiguenga for a week!

Iquitos and the Amazon River

There are three main reasons to go to Iquitos.

  1. You want to see the Amazon river.
  2. You want to take a cruise boat
  3. You want to experience present-day Amazonian present-day ribereño culture.

If nature and wildlife are what you’re looking for, stick to Tambopata or Manu.

Here is why.

  • Access to Iquitos and the Amazon River

Iquitos and the Amazon river are fairly accessible from Lima. As of this writing, there are daily flights (from Latam, Star Peru, Sky Airlines, and Viva Air). Flights are direct and two hours long. Once you arrive at Iquitos, head to the “Malecon” (as we know piers and breakwater esplanades in Spanish). There you are, that is the Amazon River, the world’s largest river. Not great huh? Looks pretty much like any dirty dock in the world. To really enjoy the Amazon river, you have to go a bit further. Do this by booking a trip with any of the lodges or operators mentioned below.

  • Nature and Wildlife in Iquitos and the Amazon River

Iquitos is a bustling city with no road connection to the rest of the world. Thus its 450,000 people consume what arrives by boat or plane or what they can wrangle out of the forest by farming, collecting, fishing, and hunting. And there lies the problem. Four hundred thousand people in the middle of the jungle using chainsaws, fertilizer, shotguns, and fishnets cast a long shadow. A recent study in Manaus, Brazil (pop 2 million) discovered it had a “defaunation shadow” of 1000 kilometers!

In other words, for 1000 kilometers around Manaus, wildlife is affected by human activity such as hunting, fishing, logging, etc. BTW, the fact Iquitos has 400 thousand people means it is the best place to experience present-day Amazonian ribereño culture. As you step off the plane you will get a whiff of street vendors selling macambo and aguaje. Visit the market and you will see fresh carachama fish and bush meat.

Pacaya Samiria National Reserve and Alpahuayo Mishana Nature Reserve

This doesn’t mean Iquitos is hopeless. Here is what it means. It means that if you want to see Amazonian wildlife and nature in good health you will have to take a week to visit El Dorado in the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. Or you may find a watered-down nature experience is enough: visit Alpahuayo Mishana Nature Reserve 20 kilometers from Iquitos to spot small endemic ant wrens and small monkeys. Or you may want to splurge on one of the 5 most luxurious experiences in Peru on the Aqua or El Delfin cruise ships. You will experience some of Peru’s finest dining and pink river dolphins!

If you want to figure out how to choose your Iquitos jungle lodge or cruise, we recommend you download our very own (and free) ebook: How to Choose a Jungle Lodge. If you can afford it though –  CRUISE the Amazon to Pacaya Samiria!

By Kurt Holle

Ok, but what about the cost?

How much will cost a trip to the Amazon? 

 

  • What our guest say

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    • 5/5

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Such a wonderful experience deep in a part of the Amazon, Tambopata NP. They really involve you with what is happening at the research centre with evening lectures. The meals are outstanding and the rooms are comfortable and I had the best sleep. Dino our guide was outstanding. The river trip to see the Macaw claylicks was a beautiful outing. We saw Capybaras along the river and it was very scenic. The staff are friendly and very engaging. As a tour operator who sends clients to AFRICA for safari, I was hugely satisfied. Thank you, gracious. Food & drinks: Good was simply delicious Read all

An amazing experience in the Peruvian jungle. the information about the centre was very accurate so I knew what to expect but was blown away by the experience and competence of my guide for the four nights, Juan Carlos Yatto. JC was looking for birds for me from the moment he collected me at the airport, so we saw birds on the drive and on the boat ride as well as on the excursions themselves. I was in Peru three weeks and JC was my best guide by far. Don't miss the clay licks for sure, and the tower is also well worth the climb. Food and people are wonderful and the research very interesting. Read all

Das Tambopata Research Center ist eine wunderbare Lodge im Nationalpark Tambopata. Die charmanten, miteinander verbundenen Aufenthaltsräume und Zimmer befinden sich auf hölzernen Stelzen. Bei den offenen Gemeinschaftsräumen gibt es gemütliche Sitzecken, eine wunderbare Hängemattenrelaxzone und einen herrlichen Restaurantbereich, wo zu jeder Zeit Tee, Kaffee und Wasser zur Verfügung stehen. Die stilvollen Zimmer verfügen über bequeme Betten mit Moskitonetz und moderne, saubere Duschbereiche. Die Research Center Lodge mit den Forschungseinrichtungen liegt inmitten des Regenwaldes umgeben von der reinen Natur mit der fantastischen Flora und Fauna, welche dort auch weiterhin erforscht und geschützt wird. Jeden Abend gibt es dazu sehr interessante Vorträge. Die Mitarbeiter sind sehr freundlich, offen und zuvorkommend. Die Buffets waren sehr köstlich und reichhaltig mit Gerichten aus der Region. Es wird großer Wert auf ökologische und nachhaltig umweltschonende Bewirtschaftung gelegt. Von der Lodge aus ist es möglich, mit ausgebildeten Guides in Gruppen von maximal 6 Personen verschiedene Exkursionen zu machen. Speziell Timo war ausgesprochen freundlich, auf unsere Sicherheit bedacht, ging auf die individuellen Interessen der einzelnen Personen ein und vermittelte uns in seiner kompetenten Art umfangreiches Wissen über die Pflanzen- und Tierwelt. Er hatte dabei die wunderbare Fähigkeit, versteckte Wildtiere zu entdecken, und verschaffte uns wunderschöne Momente, auch durch das mitgetragene Teleskop, wodurch wir der Tierwelt näher sein konnten. So sahen wir u.a. Brüllaffen, Kapuzineraffen und Spideraffen mit ihren Kindern, viele Vögel insbesondere Papageien wie z.B. Scharlach- und Gelbbauch-Aras sowie Wasserschweine und verschiedene Insekten. Wir können diese wunderbare Lodge absolut weiterempfehlen. Die herrliche Tier- und Pflanzenwelt in dem wunderbar erhaltenen und geschützten Regenwald des Amazonas war auf unserer Peru-Reise ein wirklich fantastisches Erlebnis! Read all

Rainforest Expeditions is a wonderful company and the Posadas Amazonas lodge is a beautiful location to spend your time in the Amazon. The staff are all incredibly kind, helpful, and knowledgeable. The tours were very fun and we saw lots of animals including River otters, monkeys, birds, and capybaras. We loved our guide Luis and all the people we met. The food was delicious and locally grown and there was never a dull moment. Would highly recommend! Read all

I went to Posada as part of a wider group trip, so did not pay for it directly. The lodge feels very far from anywhere and yet it feels incredibly safe. The rooms are open to nature, but nothing was ever damaged (use the safe boxes as advised, especially for food - not that you'll need any - the catering is excellent, with plenty of vegetarian options, and snacks are also provided between meals). There are flushing toilets, incredible shower facilities and the beds are very comfortable with mosquito nets placed at night by the staff. Drinking water vats are strategicvally placed throughout the lodge but you may have a long-ish walk to the common areas through corridors. Some parts of the corridors are open to the elements, but umbrellas are provided everywhere in case of rain. There is obviously no air conditioning, but this helps you acclimatise. The lodge is run by a family and others from the Infierno community, which gives the place a homely feel, with resident tour guides and a local geologist for citizen science projects. Massage services are available and there is a local shop for souvenirs and essentials like bug spray, clothing and torches. Tons of activities can be arranged, but it's also nice to relax in the hammocks and common areas and listen to the sounds of nature. While this hotel is not going to be for everyone, I had the most incredible time! Read all

The place to go if you want to see Macaws in the Peruvian rainforest. We stayed at the Tambopata Reaearch Centre (TRC) for three days and had Juan Carlos Yatto as our guide for the duration of our stay. We loved the mission of the TRC ie Macaw conservation and the link between Macaw nest site availability and the overall health of the rainforest. Juan Carlos Yatto (there is another JC at the research centre) was a fantastic guide and really made a difference to our experience at the TRC. His knowledge of the different species of wildlife and plants was amazing, his ability to spot things in the day or at night was phenomenal and he really made things accessible for our group. His English is excellent (including great humour when appropriate) and is a super guy. I really do recommend the TRC abd Juan Carlos Yatto as a guide. We saw an abundance of wildlife of all descriptions thanks to him and learned a huge amount without being overloaded. Read all

Two planes, a bus and a boat…that’s how we made it to TRC, and every minute was worth it. Tambopata is a jewel, from the moment you are greeted by the guide assigned to you (Juan Carlos Gonzales for us) to the last boat ride back to civilization. Juan Carlos was amazing…on just one hike he found five of the seven species of monkeys in the area! He is truly an expert..can hear, see and even SMELL animals, birds and insects to point out to us. We upgraded to a deluxe suite and it was decadent! An elegant outdoor tub and shower on a private balcony was soo nice’ Although we went in the rainy season, it never rained while on a hike or excursion. It rained for a few minutes on our late afternoon cruise , but not enough to dampen our enthusiasm, or prevent us from seeing a capybara in the mid! (And despite the warning of a lot of mosquitoes, I have been bitten more in my own back yard!) The bar is great, there’s PLENTY of food…we are going home feeling so lucky to have had such a great connection to the beauty of the Amazon. Read all

We had a fantastic time for our 3N/4D stay at Tambopata Research Center. The whole experience was marvellous. Rooms and facilities were great and meals superb. The Staff, ably led by Tanya the manager, were all friendly and helpful. This is the only lodge actually inside the Tambopata National Park, and we enjoyed being so "remote". I like that you have one guide who coordinates and takes you on all your activities; Jair our guide was amazing. One morning our planned activity was rained out, and I liked that they have alternative "wet weather" activities planned. There are lectures each night by researchers, which were very interesting. Also citizen science projects that you can participate in. All up, it was a fantastic way to experience the Peruvian Amazon. Read all

Posada Amazonas by Rainforest Expeditions is an extraordinary place. From your arrival at the airport in Puerto Maldonado all the staff is always attentive to your needs. You travel by boat to the hotel Posada Amazonas and it is a unique experience. It really is a total disconnection and a recollection with Mother Nature 🌎 The buffet lunch is delicious (already included in the price). You have a guide who speaks Spanish and English at all times and accompanies you to explore the jungle, the river and other activities. The price is worth it. Outside my room I caught a glimpse of monkeys :) The night sky is starry and very spectacular ✨️ 5 star service. I will definitely come back. Read all

I stayed with my parents at Refugio Amazonas for 3 days. We really enjoyed our stay and had a wonderful time here. The staff were extremely kind and well informed. The lodge manager- Arturo in particular was very helpful. To highlight their culture: They prepared special vegetarian meals for my parents, always ensured we felt comfortable and all our needs were met. A stay here is a must do to get a real feel of the Amazon rainforest on your trip to Peru! Noteworthy details: There are a lot of activities for kids and families to do, but my personal favourites are: Macaw Claylick, OxBow river ride, sunset cruise and the canopy tower. Read all

An incredible and unparalleled experience I felt fortunate Read all

I can't express how amazing our guides were. Incredibly knowledgeable and able to spot birds, frogs, spiders, animals, etc. with an almost unbelievable ability. The research and contributions to the jungle they are making at the Center are to be commended. The facilities were nice and kept clean and the staff was great, but between the walls in the rooms being open to the jungle, the heat, the bugs, underpowered fans, having to completely cover up for hikes due to bugs and then getting overheated, etc. it made for a tough stay. The food was good but after a couple days became repetitive. I would recommend this for serious birders who are willing to endure a bit for an incredible adventure. Read all

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