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Travel to Tambopata or Manu or Iquitos?
It’s worth asking: is it the right question? When do you ask yourself if you have to travel to Tambopata or Manu or Iquitos? Are we leaving important Amazonian destinations out? And the answer is YES, it is the right question, and NO we are not leaving any important Amazonian destinations out. You may have heard of Tarapoto, Huanuco, or the Selva Central (San Ramon, Oxapampa).
These are all fine and dandy if you’re a birdwatcher. Otherwise, the access vs nature/wildlife cost-benefit analysis just doesn’t cut it. At each of these places, you have to travel further for lesser quality wildlife/nature than at Tambopata. So, we will stick with our original question. And we will answer this question with our two-dimensional lens: access vs nature.
Before getting started, let me say each destination has a mature service offering. What this means is you will find tour and lodging services ranging from homestays with a warm welcome but no running water to some of the world’s most exclusive nature experiences.
Here we go!
Tambopata and the Puerto Maldonado area
There are three main reasons to travel to Tambopata
- You want a good to great nature and wildlife experience
- You want to see the world-famous Macaw Clay Licks that showed up in National Geographic, BBC, etc
- You don’t have much time. The good to great gradient for nature and wildlife depends on your time. If you’ve got four days (or more) you will get a great experience. If not, you will get a good one.
Here is why.
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Access to Tambopata
We are bunching up two Trip Advisor (and Lonely Planet, and Rough Guide, etc) destinations in this section: Tambopata and Puerto Maldonado. They really are the same from the perspective of access. To get to both, you fly to the Puerto Aldamiz airport from Cusco or Lima. There are daily flights (LATAM, Sky Airline) only 30 minutes from Cusco o 1.5 horas de Lima. Once in Puerto Maldonado, all lodges are accessible by river. The closest (Reserva Amazonica) is 30 minutes away.
The furthest (Tambopata Research Center) is 7 hours away (accessible now for a 3.5 hrs journey). Your principal concern here should be: am I staying close to the Tambopata National Reserve? And close means INSIDE or ADJACENT to the Tambopata National Reserve. If so, you will get plenty of wildlife. If not – mmmeeeehhh, you are going to have a dropoff in the quality of nature/wildlife experience. Dr. Varun Swamy actually put it in numbers. He measured monkey density in four locations around Madre de Dios. We placed two of them on a map of Tambopata and surrounding areas to help you visualize the difference.
So, in terms of access – first, check if you are adjacent (i.e. on the same side of the river) to the Tambopata National Reserve. Second try to wrangle four (or more) vacation days for Tambopata. More days = more wildlife observation opportunities and more time to push further into the Reserve
Macaw Claylick by Paul Bertner in Tambopata Peru
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Nature and Wildlife of Tambopata
Nature and wildlife in Tambopata are in good shape. The reserve has been protected since 1990. Before then it was too difficult to get to, so suffered little hunting, fishing, or logging. A three-day trip into the Tambopata National Reserve should produce 3 to 5 species of monkeys (howler monkey, brown capuchin monkey, dusky titi monkey, saddleback tamarin, and squirrel monkeys), agouti and capybara (world largest rodent), white caiman, and giant river otters (if you visit an oxbow lake) and dozens of species of birds.
Don’t forget the treehoppers, scorpion wasps, dung beetles, army ants, tiger moths, and millions (literally) of species of insects. You may even discover a new one. A four-day trip (or more) will take you into the heart of the reserve and add the world-famous macaw clay licks, a 40% chance of seeing jaguar (depending on the season), spider monkeys, and herds of one hundred white-lipped peccary. It’s hard to believe one day makes all the difference. The reason is the “defaunation shadow” we talk about below. In Tambopata / Puerto Maldonado the shadow reaches the reserve boundary– and stops. In that extra day: you cross it.
Check out the wildlife here!
Book with us here!
Manu National Park and the Cloud Forest Road
There are two main reasons to go to Manu:
- You are a birdwatcher
- You have plenty of time (a week or more).
BTW, cancel if you hate bumpy roads or small aircraft (bi-motors, and such). Bonus reason: meet the Machiguenga.
Here is why. And yes, we touch upon Nature / Wildlife first for a reason.
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Nature and Wildlife in Manu
Manu is one of the two gold standards in Amazonian protected areas open to tourism. The other is Tambopata (see above). There are no equivalent nature tourism experiences in the Amazon (until Colombia opens up!). Like Tambopata, Manu has declared a National Park in 1974, before any kind of serious farming, logging, hunting ate it up. Steep mountain ranges with impenetrable cloud forests protect them from squatters and loggers.
It is the only one (including Tambopata) that has vast swaths of an accessible cloud forest. Unlike Tambopata, the Manu Cloud Forest is accessible by road. Thus, in Manu, you get Tambopata plus the cloud forest. That means you get woolly monkeys and cock-of-the-rock. And you add one hundred plus species of flycatchers, antbirds, tanagers, and hummers to your bird list. That is why, if you are a birdwatcher, Manu is your first choice. However, if you are not…
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Access to Manu
Getting to Manu is tough! The Manu Road begins in Cusco and climbs and descends two ridges. It is long (8-10 hours in the dry season) and super bumpy. Not recommended in the rainy season (November through March) as you might get stuck waiting for a mudslide to be cleared. Once you are in the lowlands you still have 4 to 10-hour boat rides, depending on where you are headed. And don’t forget your way back. Chartered small aircraft can get you to the lowlands in no time at all so ask your operator about them. One year they are there, the next one they aren’t. Keep your eyes peeled.
In summary, to repeat what we started out with – if you have the time for a one-week expedition to the Manu area and don’t mind roughing the transport bit, go for it!
And not to forget our bonus reason: Meet the Machiguenga. Machiguenga communities have opened up to tourism with lodge operations in the past 15 years. Check out Casa Machiguenga and Pankotsi Manu Lodge. If you don’t mind modest lodging and food services you will learn a lot from the super friendly and fun-loving Machiguenga. As I tell my kids – in the most exclusive places in Peru, you sleep on the ground.
And worth repeating one final time: if you want to figure out how to choose your Manu jungle lodge operator, we recommend you download our very own (and free) ebook: How to Choose a Jungle Lodge. If you can afford the time, go to Machiguenga for a week!
Iquitos and the Amazon River
There are three main reasons to go to Iquitos.
- You want to see the Amazon river.
- You want to take a cruise boat
- You want to experience present-day Amazonian present-day ribereño culture.
If nature and wildlife are what you’re looking for, stick to Tambopata or Manu.
Here is why.
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Access to Iquitos and the Amazon River
Iquitos and the Amazon river are fairly accessible from Lima. As of this writing, there are daily flights (from Latam, Star Peru, Sky Airlines, and Viva Air). Flights are direct and two hours long. Once you arrive at Iquitos, head to the “Malecon” (as we know piers and breakwater esplanades in Spanish). There you are, that is the Amazon River, the world’s largest river. Not great huh? Looks pretty much like any dirty dock in the world. To really enjoy the Amazon river, you have to go a bit further. Do this by booking a trip with any of the lodges or operators mentioned below.
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Nature and Wildlife in Iquitos and the Amazon River
Iquitos is a bustling city with no road connection to the rest of the world. Thus its 450,000 people consume what arrives by boat or plane or what they can wrangle out of the forest by farming, collecting, fishing, and hunting. And there lies the problem. Four hundred thousand people in the middle of the jungle using chainsaws, fertilizer, shotguns, and fishnets cast a long shadow. A recent study in Manaus, Brazil (pop 2 million) discovered it had a “defaunation shadow” of 1000 kilometers!
In other words, for 1000 kilometers around Manaus, wildlife is affected by human activity such as hunting, fishing, logging, etc. BTW, the fact Iquitos has 400 thousand people means it is the best place to experience present-day Amazonian ribereño culture. As you step off the plane you will get a whiff of street vendors selling macambo and aguaje. Visit the market and you will see fresh carachama fish and bush meat.
Pacaya Samiria National Reserve and Alpahuayo Mishana Nature Reserve
This doesn’t mean Iquitos is hopeless. Here is what it means. It means that if you want to see Amazonian wildlife and nature in good health you will have to take a week to visit El Dorado in the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. Or you may find a watered-down nature experience is enough: visit Alpahuayo Mishana Nature Reserve 20 kilometers from Iquitos to spot small endemic ant wrens and small monkeys. Or you may want to splurge on one of the 5 most luxurious experiences in Peru on the Aqua or El Delfin cruise ships. You will experience some of Peru’s finest dining and pink river dolphins!
If you want to figure out how to choose your Iquitos jungle lodge or cruise, we recommend you download our very own (and free) ebook: How to Choose a Jungle Lodge. If you can afford it though – CRUISE the Amazon to Pacaya Samiria!
By Kurt Holle
Ok, but what about the cost?
How much will cost a trip to the Amazon?
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What our guest say
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- Valuation Excellent
- 5/5
Alan U November 2024
Neal H November 2024
Sergio J October 2024
Megan Jackson October 2024
Hayley October 2024
Jonathan K October 2024
Jonathan Krejci October 2024
Hannah E October 2024
Dave L October 2024
Magnus O October 2024
David G October 2024
T T October 2024
I am normally not a nature-oriented person but spending a few days in the rainforest was mind-blowing. Our guide, Juan Carlos, was knowledgeable, passionate about his work, and a fun person to go on a several hours long hike to boot. He made sure we were taking the activities at our own pace, answered all our questions and had a seemingly endless knowledge of the plants and animals. The lodge is located in a protected area of the rainforest and as a result, the biodiversity is amazing and the staff are very respectful and protective of the wildlife. For a note on the lodging, late september is the end of dry season and also the hottest time of year. If I were to come back, I would upgrade to a room with a fan as there is no AC in the facility. Lodging was clean and I personally enjoyed the chance to unplug and sleep so close to nature. Without hyperbole this was a once in a lifetime experience and I cannot recommend it enough. Read all
We had the experience of a lifetime at Posada Amazonas! For our first trip ever to Peru, we wanted to see as much of the country as possible, and started our journey here. Everything went seamlessly- from the pick up at the airport, check in at the office, to the delicious lunch on the boat during our transfer. The next 3 days were filled with wonderful experiences including the canopy hike, oxbow lake cruise, sunset cruise and more. Luis was our guide extraordinaire. His knowledge and ability to spot interesting flora and fauna were amazing. The rooms are clean and spacious and perfect to experience the jungle. You haven't lived until you are awakened by the calls of howler monkeys at 4:15am! Highly recommended! Read all
We had a truly amazing time at Tambopata Research Center and its sister lodge, Refugio. Days were filled with long walks in the jungle to see all the incredible wildlife and plant life, the evening talks with the researchers were thoroughly enjoyable and inspiring, and meals with like minded travelers were a pleasure. Our rooms were extremely comfortable and well laid out, the food was varied, healthy and tasty, and the staff really went out of their way to ensure we had everything we needed and that our stay was going well. Truly couldn't recommend this experience more. Read all
My husband and I recently had the opportunity to visit the Tambopata Research Center in the Amazon rainforest, and it was truly an unforgettable experience! We did the 5 day, 4 night experience, which was so worth it. I personally think this is the perfect amount of time as it gave us the flexibility to have more opportunities to see wildlife, but also moments of relaxing at the lodge. We booked the trip through Tambopata Travel, with Mike. He was extremely helpful, very organized, and answered all 5 million questions I had haha. He was a very effective communicator and I would recommend anyone and everyone use him to help plan your rainforest experience. Before I get to my review, my only recommendation to the center would be for them to incorporate more of a variety of activities. A majority of the available activities are equivalent to walking around the rainforest looking for animals and learning about the surroundings. Which was amazing to me, but could lead to boredom for some. Thankfully, we had out guide Timo who made every walk through the rainforest interesting. Reaching the lodge does take about 3.5 hours, but if you embrace this part of the journey it only makes everything better. Once we arrived, I found the lodge to be absolutely amazing given its remote location. There will be bugs and there will be loud animal sounds, I think it’s important to remember we are guest in these animals home. Having spent 11 days in Peru prior to this trip, I can confidently say that the food at the lodge was the best we had consistently enjoyed throughout our travels. We also had the opportunity to work with other guides in Peru, all of whom were booked through reputable companies, but none compared to our guide, Timo, in terms of his English proficiency and extensive knowledge. The bar manager was also a highlight; he was very knowledgeable about alcohol and offered great recommendations and was able to make a variety of drinks based on what we were wanting to experience. All of the staff at Tambopata were very friendly and always had a smile on their face, especially the busser, I unfortunately missed his name, but he was great and so friendly. From start to finish, the trip was filled with incredible moments, largely thanks to our amazing guide, Timo. Timo was hands down the most knowledgeable guide I have ever encountered. His expertise about the rainforest was impressive, and he had an uncanny ability to spot wildlife that we would have completely missed without him. It was raining one day and we were willing to go out in the rain and Timo was right there with us. We had the chance to see a wide variety of animals, far exceeding my expectations.Timo also provided us with extensive knowledge about the plants and trees, helping us to understand the ecosystem as a whole. I was seriously blown away by how much he knew about the rainforest. Timo’s insights made the experience not just about the wildlife we saw, but also about the profound interconnectedness of life in the rainforest. We also appreciated Timo’s insight about the nature of wildlife viewing in the rainforest; some days were bustling with activity while others were quieter. I think it’s important for anyone wanting to travel to the Amazon to remember, this is a vast ecosystem with thousands of acres of wilderness- not a zoo. Overall, my time at the Tambopata Research Center was filled with awe-inspiring moments, and I learned so much about the rainforest. I highly recommend this experience to anyone looking to connect deeply with nature. Just remember to go with the flow and appreciate the rainforest for what it is! Read all
Fantastic lodge and research station deep in the reserve and the Amazon forest far from all visible signs of humanity, dense rainforest teeming with birds, animals, insects - it balances the discomfort of the steamy forest heat and biting insects perfectly with a little luxury when you are not out on excursions in the jungle - exactly what one would want from an Amazon experience. Read all
This lodge is a bit of a splurge, but for me, totally worth it. The staff were, without exception, cheerful, friendly and helpful. Our guide, Dino, was a true professional: a calm presence and a genius at spotting wildlife, and having no more than seven people in our group at all times was a plus (the other Rainforest Expeditions lodges have up to ten). We opted for a Comfort Room, and it was lovely; spacious and attractive, with a hammock and a terrific shower. The biggest surprise for me was the food, which was consistently terrific. Finally, it is clear to me that Rainforest Expeditions is truly committed to environmental preservation and giving back to the local community. As for the rainforest itself, it was interesting and we saw lots of wildlife, but don't expect it to be like an African safari. You can walk for a long time without seeing much, and often the animals are far way or well hidden (this is one reason group size matters; we often took turns looking through our guide's high-powered telescopic lens). Also, your experience will depend a lot on the weather. Two of the days we were there were quite nice; the other two were oppressively, stultifyingly hot and humid. Read all
This lodge is a bit of a splurge, but for me, totally worth it. The staff were, without exception, cheerful, friendly and helpful. Our guide, Dino, was a true professional: a calm presence and a genius at spotting wildlife, and having no more than seven people in our group at all times was a plus (the other Rainforest Expeditions lodges have up to ten). We opted for a Comfort Room, and it was lovely; spacious and attractive, with a hammock and a terrific shower. The biggest surprise for me was the food, which was consistently terrific. Finally, it is clear to me that Rainforest Expeditions is truly committed to environmental preservation and giving back to the local community. As for the rainforest itself, it was interesting and we saw lots of wildlife, but don't expect it to be like an African safari. You can walk for a long time without seeing much, and often the animals are far way or well hidden (this is one reason group size matters; we often took turns looking through our guide's high-powered telescopic lens). Also, your experience will depend a lot on the weather. Two of the days we were there were quite nice; the other two were oppressively, stultifyingly hot and humid. Read all
We had an amazing time during our trip to the Tambopata Research Center. The staff make your stay as comfortable as possible, and the food is delicious. From the moment they collect you at the airport, you don’t have to worry about anything - you’ll be in good hands. Our guide, Boris, did an incredible job of planning our daily activities, and we were spoiled to see and learn about the incredible wildlife - parrots, macaws, monkeys, capybara, innumerable insects, and more! This is a fantastic trip is highly recommended if you are keen on science, nature, and not too fussed about some pretty big bugs! We did a 3-night, 2-day trip (with a travel day on both sides), and would recommend one more day if you can swing it! Read all
This is not a resort but rather a very nice and comfortable eco lodge to view wildlife with friendly and knowledgeable staff. Keep in mind that there is a lot of walking and stairs (almost 0.5 miles) to get to the lodge from the water transport river bank where you are dropped off. The clean spacious rooms are open air concept with mosquito nets for the beds and you can listen to rainforest creatures all night. The activities they offer are diverse (e.g., night hikes, water excursions to see caimans, otters and bird watching, visit to local farm and 40 meter observation tower). You are fed well with breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets. Many thanks to our tour guide Luis M. for his extensive knowledge of the rainforest and keen eyes/ears to find hidden creatures while keeping our group safe. Read all
Fint och trevligt ställe inne i regnskogen. Maten var enkel men god, serverat som buffé. Vatten från egen brunn fanns för påfyllning i medhavda vattenflaskor (fanns att köpa om man missat). Kaffe och te fanns alltid tillgängligt men var oftast kallt och svagt. Mycket häftiga rum som är helt öppna mot naturen på en sida. Var beredd på besök av smådjur och insekter. Gästerna fick komma överens om vilka aktiviteter vi ville genomföra med guiden på plats. Turerna var bra men med mycket tidiga starter. För oss som hade värmebölja med temperaturer uppåt 40 grader passade detta bra. Read all
Our 3-night stay at the Tambopata research was an experience we will never forget. Everything was well coordinated starting with our pickup at the airport. We then took a 10 min bus ride to the Rainforest Expeditions office where a busload of us all repacked our stuff into 30 lb duffel bags. The remainder of our items stayed at the office. Next, we got back on the bus for a 90-minute ride to the boat dock. Along the way, we had a box lunch and had an overview of the area and our upcoming days. Once on the boat, the guides slowed down for wildlife photo ops of capybaras and the many birds we saw. When we arrived at the lodge, Mary gave an overview of the facility while our bags were taken to our room which was a 10-minute walk from the main lodge/dining area on an elevated boardwalk in the rainforest. The room as advertised was open on one side to the rainforest and yes, we did have some nighttime visitors, but the mosquito netting kept them off us. The room was spacious and well-appointed with a fridge, ceiling fan, water, etc. At dinner we met our own personal rainforest guide – Timo. We made our plans for the next day which included a 5AM boat ride to the clay lick where we saw the most amazing macaws. Timo was very knowledgeable, fluent in English and well equipped with a telescope which provided some great pix even with using just an iPhone. Timo also took us on several hikes around the facility and up to the top of the canopy tower where we saw various species on monkeys and more birds. Each evening there were lectures presented by the researchers on various topics. Then there was the food! Each meal was freshly made and well prepared. Quite a variety for all tastes. The food is amazing and goes quickly so be sure to load up your plate. And the bar had a decent variety of beer, wine and liquor! We spent more at Tambopata than we normally would, but I can say it was definitely well worth it!! Read all
Had an amazing stay of 3 nights here. Guide (Lucia) was fantastic, even having a phone attachment to allow you to take photos through her telescope and get fantastic shots, and much of the trip was solo with her. The lodge had blazing fast wifi, mix of craft beers, and was very comfortable (as long as you don't mind the odd butterfly or frog wandering into your room). Friendly service and really well organized w/ lots of variety of things to do - I happened to stumble across a giant Harpy Eagle right outside the lodge, just incredible. Only thing that could be improved is more variety of food and condiments to spice it up, but it is in the middle of the rainforest after all Read all
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